UKC

250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
180m. Although not as good as the Southeast Ridge, this is still a nice way onto the Index summit. The bolting is sparse on all but the trickiest sections so having a grade in hand is advised. Some of the bolts are tricky to spot too.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, walk onto the scree slope below the Col de l'Index. Traverse the scree leftwards and drop down on a faint path to the foot of the route.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb the slab, passing a short steep section halfway up, to a belay on a small notch.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the arête above to a belay just below the grassy ramp that splits the face. Once you've brought up your second(s) scramble up to and across the ramp to a single bolt belay at the foot of a light-coloured slab.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab, drifting right initially and then coming back left to belay. There are no bolts until 10m up the pitch so take care on the lower section.
4) 5c, 25m. Continue up the slab and the steep crack above.
5) 5b, 20m. More slabs lead to an exposed stance.
6) 5b, 25m. Ignore the ramp leading out right and head up the steep wall split by a crack. Belay just below the ridge crest.
7) 3c, 15m. Climb the final pitch of the Southeast Ridge.
Descent - Scramble down the northwest ridge for 10m to a reach several bolted belays (the peak can be very busy, hence the multiple abseil points). Either make a 30m abseil to just above the Col de l'Index and scramble down into the gully below leading directly to the Index chairlift, or make 3 x 25m abseils on bolted anchors down the northwest face in order to reach the gully further down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6a free, 5c obl.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

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User Date Notes
Webster 3 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: first pitch is 4c not 5b. 3rd pitch has a good 2 bolt belay just above the girdle ledge, and is well bolted in the first 10m, contrary to wrongfax description. it is however very runout in the middle on chossy ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first pitch is 4c not 5b. 3rd pitch has a good 2 bolt belay just above the girdle ledge, and is well bolted in the first 10m, contrary to wrongfax description. it is however very runout in the middle on chossy ground.

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High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

South Ridge Integral

Grade: D+ 5c ***
(Aiguille de Moine)
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