180m. Although not as good as the Southeast Ridge, this is still a nice way onto the Index summit. The bolting is sparse on all but the trickiest sections so having a grade in hand is advised. Some of the bolts are tricky to spot too.Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, walk onto the scree slope below the Col de l'Index. Traverse the scree leftwards and drop down on a faint path to the foot of the route. 1) 5b, 40m. Climb the slab, passing a short steep section halfway up, to a belay on a small notch.2) 4c, 25m. Follow the arête above to a belay just below the grassy ramp that splits the face. Once you've brought up your second(s) scramble up to and across the ramp to a single bolt belay at the foot of a light-coloured slab.3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab, drifting right initially and then coming back left to belay. There are no bolts until 10m up the pitch so take care on the lower section.4) 5c, 25m. Continue up the slab and the steep crack above.5) 5b, 20m. More slabs lead to an exposed stance.6) 5b, 25m. Ignore the ramp leading out right and head up the steep wall split by a crack. Belay just below the ridge crest.7) 3c, 15m. Climb the final pitch of the Southeast Ridge.Descent - Scramble down the northwest ridge for 10m to a reach several bolted belays (the peak can be very busy, hence the multiple abseil points). Either make a 30m abseil to just above the Col de l'Index and scramble down into the gully below leading directly to the Index chairlift, or make 3 x 25m abseils on bolted anchors down the northwest face in order to reach the gully further down. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
6a free, 5c obl.
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