UKC

250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
180m. Although not as good as the Southeast Ridge, this is still a nice way onto the Index summit. The bolting is sparse on all but the trickiest sections so having a grade in hand is advised. Some of the bolts are tricky to spot too.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb the slab, passing a short steep section halfway up, to a belay on a small notch.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the arête above to a belay just below the grassy ramp that splits the face. Once you've brought up your second(s) scramble up to and across the ramp to a single bolt belay at the foot of a light-coloured slab.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab, drifting right initially and then coming back left to belay. There are no bolts until 10m up the pitch so take care on the lower section.
4) 5c, 25m. Continue up the slab and the steep crack above.
5) 5b, 20m. More slabs lead to an exposed stance.
6) 5b, 25m. Ignore the ramp leading out right and head up the steep wall split by a crack. Belay just below the ridge crest.
7) 3c, 15m. Climb the final pitch of the Southeast Ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
6a free, 5c obl.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 5 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Some pitches can be run together with a 60m rope and long QDs, take at least 14 if planning to do so. A few small nuts and a couple small cams could be handy if not comfortable leading runout 5b's
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some pitches can be run together with a 60m rope and long QDs, take at least 14 if planning to do so. A few small nuts and a couple small cams could be handy if not comfortable leading runout 5b's
Webster 3 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: first pitch is 4c not 5b. 3rd pitch has a good 2 bolt belay just above the girdle ledge, and is well bolted in the first 10m, contrary to wrongfax description. it is however very runout in the middle on chossy ground.
Show beta
βeta: first pitch is 4c not 5b. 3rd pitch has a good 2 bolt belay just above the girdle ledge, and is well bolted in the first 10m, contrary to wrongfax description. it is however very runout in the middle on chossy ground.

Logged Ascents

339 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 53 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Arête Ryan/East Ridge

Grade: D+ ***
(Aiguille du Plan)

Loading Notifications...