Rockfax Description
145m. An excellent route - pitches 1 to 3 are superb! The belays are fixed but there's nothing on the pitches so take a full rack, including some small wires. The route is accessed by scrambling up grass and rock from the gully where the Frison-Roche starts.
1) 6a+, 25m. Climb the wide crack using some good footholds which seem to appear whenever there isn't much to grab!
2) 6b, 35m. THE pitch. Depending on your relative abilities, you'll want to sandbag your mate into either seconding or leading this one. The climbing is sustained and stunning and requires the full repertoire of techniques.
3) 6a+, 25m. From the belay, make some strenuous layback moves to gain easier ground and then a terrace. Belay at the back of the terrace.
4) 6a, 25m. Climb the wall above the left end of the terrace, drifting gradually left then back rightwards.
5) 5c, 35m. Easier climbing up the wall on some occasionally loose rock. Belay at the viewing platform, probably with an adoring audience of tourists! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The corner on the right side of the clearly visible black streaks. According to Piola guide book start by scrambling up next to Voie Frichon-Roche, the route starts on the same level with the first belay of Frichon-Roche, but some 10 meters to the left. After the first three pitches (the corner), walk left for a few meters on the upper ledge and belay below a crumbly looking ramp (two bolts for the belay). The route finishes up the loose ramp and cracks in two pitches, a nicer alternative would be to finish on the last pitch of Frichon-Roche.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mic.snow | 24 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Take care with the layback start of P3, you're just above the ledge, it's tricky to get protection in and it's easy to slip and deck. | ||
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βeta: Take care with the layback start of P3, you're just above the ledge, it's tricky to get protection in and it's easy to slip and deck. |
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Gemmazrobo | 3 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: In situ number 3 on pitch 1. Useful and we didn’t have one | ||
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βeta: In situ number 3 on pitch 1. Useful and we didn’t have one |
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John McKenna - Rockfax | 20 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Take large cams for first pitch to avoid huge runouts. >BD size 4 useful. Small wires suggested in guide were not useful on first pitch (experience only based on first pitch) | ||
Show beta
βeta: Take large cams for first pitch to avoid huge runouts. >BD size 4 useful. Small wires suggested in guide were not useful on first pitch (experience only based on first pitch) |
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Grade: TD+ 6b+ ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)