Rockfax Description
II, 165m. A good bolted line that provides an alternative to Frison-Roche which is often busy. It has some good sustained face climbing in its upper half.
1) 6a, 45m. Follow the line of bolts trending up leftwards. À Fleur de Roche takes the right-hand line of bolts.
2) 5c, 30m. Follow corners and crimps up and left.
3) 6a, 30m. A nice pitch on crimps overlooking the Frison-Roche.
4) 6b, 40m. Great technical climbing on a steep wall.
5) 6a, 30m. Another good steep pitch. Beware for loose rock! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The 'new' route on the Brévent face. Starts just to the right of Frison-Roche. 5 pitches - 6a, 5c, 6a, 6b (A0), 5c. Good climbing on the whole, in particular the 6b pitch which is excellent. Rock is slightly loose in places though so take care. Fully bolted though a bit spaced so not one for pushing your grade on.
Thierry Renault, Jonathan Charlet, Christophe Blaszczyk 2014.
Ticklists
Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed. , Photos
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DavidOola | 25 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Beta comment is no joke - lots of places you can't fall in between the bolts starting two thirds of the way up the first pitch. The first two bolts on following pitches can also be spicy with potential to hit the belayer or a ledge. But the holds are always there, and the 6b pitch is worth the effort. Plus nobody was on it while there were 6 parties on Frison Roche. We did not notice too much loose rock at all - at least in that regard it felt quite safe. Also the rockfax route lengths are wrong. Pitch 3 is 20 metres tops. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Beta comment is no joke - lots of places you can't fall in between the bolts starting two thirds of the way up the first pitch. The first two bolts on following pitches can also be spicy with potential to hit the belayer or a ledge. But the holds are always there, and the 6b pitch is worth the effort. Plus nobody was on it while there were 6 parties on Frison Roche. We did not notice too much loose rock at all - at least in that regard it felt quite safe. Also the rockfax route lengths are wrong. Pitch 3 is 20 metres tops. |
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| Webster | 6 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: there are lots of dangerous runouts, you would take a ground fall on much of the first pitch as the gully follow you up the rising traverse. on most of the rest of the route you would take nasty ledge falls on hard moves so the leader needs to be very very comfortable on 6b... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: there are lots of dangerous runouts, you would take a ground fall on much of the first pitch as the gully follow you up the rising traverse. on most of the rest of the route you would take nasty ledge falls on hard moves so the leader needs to be very very comfortable on 6b... |
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| mic.snow | 17 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Note: Not equipped for abseil. The belay bolts are connected with cord, but most have no rings. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Note: Not equipped for abseil. The belay bolts are connected with cord, but most have no rings. |
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| Stuart Johnston | 30 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don't start too far right of frisson Roche as there is another line of bolts at about 6A. We traverse to piste oubliee after the 2nd pitch. Leaving gear. 6a and 6b pitches are pure quality face climbing. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Don't start too far right of frisson Roche as there is another line of bolts at about 6A. We traverse to piste oubliee after the 2nd pitch. Leaving gear. 6a and 6b pitches are pure quality face climbing. |
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Filo di Arianna (Fil d'Ariane)
Grade: TD ***
(Mont Maudit)