Rockfax Description
II, 195m. Considered by many to be the best route of the Brévent. The climbing is enjoyable throughout, the bolting is excellent and the final pitch would be a classic at any crag.
1) 6a, 45m. Gear up on a terrace with two bolts. Start by stepping left and climbing a steep pillar (5b) and then up a steep slab, past one 6a move which can be missed out by moving left.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb the broken blocks and traverse up rightwards to a belay on a terrace.
3) 5b, 30m. Move up from the belay and follow the ramp-line out rightwards to a small belay beneath a corner.
4) 6a, 40m. Climb the corner for 5m, then climb slabs to reach a steep corner-crack. This is physical and/or technical depending on your skill level and leads to a spacious belay on a large ledge.
5) 2a, 20m. A linking pitch across the ledge leftwards - make a couple of grassy moves then go right to the foot of the corner.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner, past a tricky move about halfway up, to a belay just below the viewing platform. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A corner and crack line under the summit of the Brevent. Equipped.
Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , TM Alps
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kileyb11 | 3 Sep |
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βeta: Loved this route. Very well bolted - however, if this is your limit you could bring a few bigger cams for the 6a crack to feel a bit better. Crack gloves would have been handy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loved this route. Very well bolted - however, if this is your limit you could bring a few bigger cams for the 6a crack to feel a bit better. Crack gloves would have been handy. |
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Leahcleire | 4 Jul |
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βeta: The hardest 6a thus far. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The hardest 6a thus far. |
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et19 | 20 Jun |
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βeta: Rockfax topo rather inaccurate surprise surprise | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rockfax topo rather inaccurate surprise surprise |
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bonkersbilly123 | 11 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: A very busy route but for good reason. Aim to be the first on the route to avoid severe traffic! | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very busy route but for good reason. Aim to be the first on the route to avoid severe traffic! |
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LP | 11 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: One of those special climbing days. No queues, one other party on the route, perfect weather . Apprehensive before I set off but as soon as the climbing started everything flowed - lovely climbing in great positions- obviously it couldn’t all go totally fine so i decided to back clip moving through the tricky bit on the last pitch just as a very kind chap popped over the top to take photos . Couldn’t down-climb so Ended up doing some tenuous stretchy moves to unclip, whilst holding the quick draw with my foot so I could reclip. It’s also all on video which is nice. I led 1,3, (5) and 6. I would like to come back and lead the crux which felt stiff for 6a but maybe it was the backpack … | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One of those special climbing days. No queues, one other party on the route, perfect weather . Apprehensive before I set off but as soon as the climbing started everything flowed - lovely climbing in great positions- obviously it couldn’t all go totally fine so i decided to back clip moving through the tricky bit on the last pitch just as a very kind chap popped over the top to take photos . Couldn’t down-climb so Ended up doing some tenuous stretchy moves to unclip, whilst holding the quick draw with my foot so I could reclip. It’s also all on video which is nice. I led 1,3, (5) and 6. I would like to come back and lead the crux which felt stiff for 6a but maybe it was the backpack … |
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Gwinn512 | 23 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Don't bother with a trad rack. Maybe take a couple nuts at most. | ||
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βeta: Don't bother with a trad rack. Maybe take a couple nuts at most. |
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K Mckay | 1 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Got stuck behind a French guide dragging his client up the route. This client fell ontop of me whilst leading the first pitch. Little bit soft at the grade I think. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Got stuck behind a French guide dragging his client up the route. This client fell ontop of me whilst leading the first pitch. Little bit soft at the grade I think. |
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Webster | 2 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: the rock is far from reasuring on the 5b pitches, and its a long way to the first bolt on pitch 3, meaning the leader must not fall as it could risk multiple parties who are hanging on the belay if it were to fail! | ||
Show beta
βeta: the rock is far from reasuring on the 5b pitches, and its a long way to the first bolt on pitch 3, meaning the leader must not fall as it could risk multiple parties who are hanging on the belay if it were to fail! |
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GHawksworth | 29 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Either this lower than TD- or Rebuffat Pierre is above, this is much more gentle as an overall route and exposure/setting. There is only one bolt (that 3 parties could see at least) at the starting terrace. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Either this lower than TD- or Rebuffat Pierre is above, this is much more gentle as an overall route and exposure/setting. There is only one bolt (that 3 parties could see at least) at the starting terrace. |
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Grade: TD- ***
(Grande Casse)