II, 195m. Considered by many to be the best route of the Brévent. The climbing is enjoyable throughout, the bolting is excellent and the final pitch would be a classic at any crag.
1) 6a, 45m. Gear up on a terrace with two bolts. Start by stepping left and climbing a steep pillar (5b) and then up a steep slab, past one 6a move which can be missed out by moving left.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb the broken blocks and traverse up rightwards to a belay on a terrace.
3) 5b, 30m. Move up from the belay and follow the ramp-line out rightwards to a small belay beneath a corner.
4) 6a, 40m. Climb the corner for 5m, then climb slabs to reach a steep corner-crack. This is physical and/or technical depending on your skill level and leads to a spacious belay on a large ledge.
5) 2a, 20m. A linking pitch across the ledge leftwards - make a couple of grassy moves then go right to the foot of the corner.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner, past a tricky move about halfway up, to a belay just below the viewing platform. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A corner and crack line under the summit of the Brevent. Equipped.
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