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Rockfax Description
II, 195m. Considered by many to be the best route of the Brévent. The climbing is enjoyable throughout, the bolting is excellent and the final pitch would be a classic at any crag.
1) 6a, 45m. Gear up on a terrace with two bolts. Start by stepping left and climbing a steep pillar (5b) and then up a steep slab, past one 6a move which can be missed out by moving left.
2) 5b, 30m. Climb the broken blocks and traverse up rightwards to a belay on a terrace.
3) 5b, 30m. Move up from the belay and follow the ramp-line out rightwards in an amazing position to a small belay beneath a corner.
4) 6a, 40m. Climb the corner for 5m, then climb slabs to reach a steep corner-crack. This is physical and/or technical depending on your skill level and leads to a spacious belay on a large ledge.
5) 2a, 20m. A linking pitch across the ledge leftwards - make a couple of grassy moves then go right to the foot of the corner.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the corner, past a tricky move about halfway up, to a belay just below the viewing platform. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A corner and crack line under the summit of the Brevent. Equipped.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

Feedback

User Date Notes
K Mckay 1 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Got stuck behind a French guide dragging his client up the route. This client fell ontop of me whilst leading the first pitch. Little bit soft at the grade I think.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got stuck behind a French guide dragging his client up the route. This client fell ontop of me whilst leading the first pitch. Little bit soft at the grade I think.
Webster 2 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: the rock is far from reasuring on the 5b pitches, and its a long way to the first bolt on pitch 3, meaning the leader must not fall as it could risk multiple parties who are hanging on the belay if it were to fail!
 
Show beta
βeta: the rock is far from reasuring on the 5b pitches, and its a long way to the first bolt on pitch 3, meaning the leader must not fall as it could risk multiple parties who are hanging on the belay if it were to fail!
GHawksworth 29 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Either this lower than TD- or Rebuffat Pierre is above, this is much more gentle as an overall route and exposure/setting. There is only one bolt (that 3 parties could see at least) at the starting terrace.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Either this lower than TD- or Rebuffat Pierre is above, this is much more gentle as an overall route and exposure/setting. There is only one bolt (that 3 parties could see at least) at the starting terrace.

Logged Ascents

681 users have logged this
121 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 56
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 76
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Route Major

Grade: TD- ***
(Mont Blanc)