UKC

250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
240m. One of the best routes in this area and the final pitch is outstanding. It is gaining in popularity but is still often quiet outside July and August. Start at the toe of a small buttress below a pitch with ring bolts.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the slabby corner and the rib above to reach a grassy ledge. Cross this and climb another 5m buttress before stepping right to a peg and bolt belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Follow the arĂȘte above the belay, staying just to the right of the crest, on positive holds to a steep pull through a vertical wall on thin holds. This leads to a slab, which is followed rightwards to a belay on a thin ledge.
3) 5b, 40m. Go up and right 5m from the belay and climb the excellent wall above. Move left at the top and follow the rib for 5m to a long ledge with the belay at the right-hand end.
4) 6a, 25m. The slab above the belay leads to a fantastic pillar, which is climbed on its crest, or just to the right, and leads to a grassy ledge. The belay is 4m to the left.
5) 5a, 25m. Cross the gully behind the belay and climb the rib above for 12m. When this ends, step across another gully to the left and climb the steep 4m wall on the far side of it onto slabs above. These lead easily to the belay.
Make a slightly awkward 14m abseil from here down to boulders and then walk/scramble north for 100m, hugging the steep walls on the left, to the next pitch which starts at a series of steep cracks in a grey wall.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the cracks either on the left (5c) or the right (6a) - neither is a pushover - to easier slabs above and follow these to an uncomfortable hanging belay.
7) 5a, 20m. Carry on up the slab in much the same vein, then follow the crest of the ridge above. When this ends, step off left, walk across and come back right to an exposed ledge with a belay at the far right end.
8) 6a, 40m. THE Pitch! Climb the arĂȘte above the belay until, after four bolts, it leads you rightwards through a little steepening and onto the southwest ridge of the Clocher de Planpraz. Follow this in a fantastic position to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Great views of the Mont Blanc Massif in a wild and remote setting.

Take the Brevent telepherique to the middle station of PlanPraz. Take the path to lac Cornu (15mins) then take the first combe on the left. Total approach 30mins. High above to the right you should see a tower which is the summit.

Last pitch is either 6a+ or 5b - I would recommend the 6a+ - great feeling of exposure.

Make sure you dont miss the last telecabin down - its a long walk !

Ticklists

Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

Feedback

User Date Notes
tbiglari 9 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Excellent climbing, no gear needed. A deceptive route for time, we had to run for the last lift!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent climbing, no gear needed. A deceptive route for time, we had to run for the last lift!
Tall Oak 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The PITCH is the PITCH! Very cool route. Got a little pumped and going off course into the small chimney section. Bold move going around the arete with my toes killing me. The pitch keeps coming with a few tricky moves after but certainly cool. Nice scenes of Mt Blanc in the background, and very fortunate with the weather and lack of crowds for such a cool multipitch. Its 100% all bolted.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The PITCH is the PITCH! Very cool route. Got a little pumped and going off course into the small chimney section. Bold move going around the arete with my toes killing me. The pitch keeps coming with a few tricky moves after but certainly cool. Nice scenes of Mt Blanc in the background, and very fortunate with the weather and lack of crowds for such a cool multipitch. Its 100% all bolted.
Webster 16 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The lower sharp arete on the final 6a pitch is becoming pretty unstable with some big blocks starting to sound/feel loose. i recomend taking some nuts and traversing right into the good corner crack after the second or 3rd bolt
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The lower sharp arete on the final 6a pitch is becoming pretty unstable with some big blocks starting to sound/feel loose. i recomend taking some nuts and traversing right into the good corner crack after the second or 3rd bolt
Giles Eperon 2 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fully bolted, no gear needed unless you'd like to take a few nuts. We didn't need any gear except 12ish draws.
Show beta
βeta: Fully bolted, no gear needed unless you'd like to take a few nuts. We didn't need any gear except 12ish draws.

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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 28
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Macho Couloir (Quille Couloir)

Grade: TD- ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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