240m. One of the best routes in this area and the final pitch is outstanding. It is gaining in popularity but is still often quiet outside July and August. Start at the toe of a small buttress below a pitch with ring bolts.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the slabby corner and the rib above to reach a grassy ledge. Cross this and climb another 5m buttress before stepping right to a peg and bolt belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Follow the arête above the belay, staying just to the right of the crest, on positive holds to a steep pull through a vertical wall on thin holds. This leads to a slab, which is followed rightwards to a belay on a thin ledge.
3) 5b, 40m. Go up and right 5m from the belay and climb the excellent wall above. Move left at the top and follow the rib for 5m to a long ledge with the belay at the right-hand end.
4) 6a, 25m. The slab above the belay leads to a fantastic pillar, which is climbed on its crest, or just to the right, and leads to a grassy ledge. The belay is 4m to the left.
5) 5a, 25m. Cross the gully behind the belay and climb the rib above for 12m. When this ends, step across another gully to the left and climb the steep 4m wall on the far side of it onto slabs above. These lead easily to the belay.
Make a slightly awkward 14m abseil from here down to boulders and then walk/scramble north for 100m, hugging the steep walls on the left, to the next pitch which starts at a series of steep cracks in a grey wall.
6) 5c, 30m. Climb the cracks either on the left (5c) or the right (6a) - neither is a pushover - to easier slabs above and follow these to an uncomfortable hanging belay.
7) 5a, 20m. Carry on up the slab in much the same vein, then follow the crest of the ridge above. When this ends, step off left, walk across and come back right to an exposed ledge with a belay at the far right end.
8) 6a, 40m. THE Pitch! Climb the arête above the belay until, after four bolts, it leads you rightwards through a little steepening and onto the southwest ridge of the Clocher de Planpraz. Follow this in a fantastic position to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Great views of the Mont Blanc Massif in a wild and remote setting.
Take the Brevent telepherique to the middle station of PlanPraz. Take the path to lac Cornu (15mins) then take the first combe on the left. Total approach 30mins. High above to the right you should see a tower which is the summit.
Last pitch is either 6a+ or 5b - I would recommend the 6a+ - great feeling of exposure.
Make sure you dont miss the last telecabin down - its a long walk !
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