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6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
165m. A popular line which gets plenty of traffic at the weekends but can be pleasantly quiet during the week. Approach past a slabby rib with a large red mark and carry on to the next rib. The first belay is not fixed but there are plenty of blocks to stick a sling around.
All the pitches have some bolts but a set of cams is required to protect several sections, particularly pitch 4.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, head directly up towards the route following a path on a moraine ridge.
1) 4a, 25m. Climb the slabby rib and then move right to belay.
2) 4c, 35m. Follow the slab straight up and then head left and follow another slab to a grassy belay ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Step left and climb the steep groove and wall above.
4) 5b, 30m. Scramble easily up to the foot of a steep wall and climb this, trending leftwards at the top, to a large ledge. There are only two bolts on this pitch so take a few mid-sized cams.
5) 3c, 20m. Follow the ridge easily to the foot of the final tower and belay on the right.
6) 5b, 30m. Traverse up and left onto the arête of the tower and make a committing step left onto a slab. Follow this and the right-leaning groove above to a spacious belay.
Descent - Scramble up from the final belays on the routes to reach the summit of the buttress. From here walk/scramble down a path to reach the gully which separates this buttress from the Index, and descend this easily to a 28m abseil. At the foot of the abseil (which can be downclimbed at 3c) walk directly back to the chairlift. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A 6 pitch equipped route on the Tour de Crochues, just left of Nez Rouge.


Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)


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High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest


Grade: D 5c ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)