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400m, 14 pitches.

Rockfax Description
425m. A superb route which is also know as 'Chapelle de la Glière'. The 'razoir pitch' is probably the most photographed in the valley and you'll understand why when you do it. Start at a bolt and a peg at the foot of a wide, right-facing corner-crack. There are some fully bolted but less travelled routes around the start; ignore these and stick to the corner.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend the jeep track back towards the Flégère until it splits after 5 minutes or so. Take the right-hand branch, signposted for the Lachenal ski piste, and follow this for 100m and then branch off right onto a smaller path which traverses a scree slope. Follow this until almost directly below the start of the route and take a path leading rightwards into the final approach gully. Follow the gully (easy scrambling) to the foot of the first pitch. There is also a higher path that looks like it leads directly from the top of the chairlift to the foot of the route but it actually descends after 200m and joins the approach described here.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the wide and polished corner-crack to a bolt belay on the left where it widens. If the belay is occupied, there is another one 5m up and to the right.
2) 4b, 25m. Continue up the corner-crack to gain the ridge.
3) 4a, 50m. Follow the ridge crest easily and then climb the blocky rock step above. Stay right at the top of this and don't be tempted leftwards by the presence of two bolted belays. Belay at the foot of a steep, well-worn corner with a peg 5m up.
4) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner, which is strenuous in places, to a semi-hanging bolt/peg belay on a small, sloping ledge.
5) 5a, 25m. Continue up the corner and exit via a steep pull onto slabbier ground. Follow this up and rightwards to a block belay at the start of an easy section of ridge.
6) 4a, 55m. Follow the ridge easily to where it steepens, and step right and climb a wide groove to a belay on a ledge with a short, orange slab on the left with a bolt a few metres up it. Given the ease of the climbing at the start of this pitch, moving together for part of this pitch makes sense and avoids having to bring a 60m rope specifically for this section.
7) 5c, 20m. Climb the slab (one hard move at the start) and step up and right at the top to an exposed belay on a spike.
8) 5a, 25m. The legendary 'razoir pitch'. Stand on top of the spike and make a committing move onto the slab above. Climb straight up and then slightly rightwards to reach the top of the slab. Follow this via a couple of bits of fixed gear down and rightwards to a bolt on the right where the slab ends.
9) 5a, 50m. Scramble up onto a small area of boulders and walk along this leftwards to join the ridge crest. Follow this to a steep groove. Climb this and step right at the top to belay on a spike.
10) 3c, 40m. Move right and climb broken ground up and rightwards. Pass through a groove and belay on spikes above.
11) 3c, 30m. Traverse right across easy ground and scramble through a notch to belay right below the Chapelle itself.
12) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep wall of the Chapelle via some steep and satisfying moves. At the top of the wall, follow the crest of the rock ridge down and right to a bolt belay beneath a final steep wall.
13) 6a, 15m. Head up the steep wall past some tenuous-feeling moves. There is sometimes some tat around a wobbly spike protecting the last few moves.
Descent - Make a 15m abseil down the north face of the Chapelle to reach a large boulder-filled terrace. From here, scramble eastwards following cairns and a vague path across the hillside, heading for the gully above the Aiguille de l'Index. This involves scrambling up and down occasionally exposed terrain but it is never hard. Be aware that there is some rockfall in the three big gullies that the path crosses so pick your spots carefully if you need to stop. Having crossed the third gully, continue down the clear path descending from the Aiguille de l'Index and follow this via a 28m abseil (or 3c downclimb) to the Index chairlift. Allow an hour from the top of the Chapelle to the chairlift. © Rockfax

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Route of Interest

Arête du Diable Traverse

Grade: D+ 5c ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)