UKC

65m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
65m. A great horizontal outing. Start up Z Climb and follow the horizontal line of cracks and breaks. Stances are available in Parson's Chimney, on the Pulpit, and either in Long Chimney, or (uncomfortably) on the pedestal of Great Western. Mega-classic! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Enjoyable route covering most of the North West Face. Start as for Z Climb, follow the rightwards rising crack onto Central Climb. Climb down Central Climb to a triangular niche and then hand traverse right to belay on the ledge of Parson's Chimney. From the belay move up the right wall of Parson's Chimney and traverse the high break right beneath the overhang of Big Greeny. Climb onto Frankland's Green Crack before a long stride from small but positive footholds leads onto The Pulpit. Belay. It is possible to keep going up Frankland's and to take a belay at the top of Long Chimney beneath the capping block instead of the long step onto The Pulpit. Make a long step (reminiscent of Piggot's Stride) from the top of The Pulpit to join Long Chimney. Climb this to beneath the capping block then make the crux traverse across the top of Wall of Horrors to take a cramped belay on the Pinnacle of Great Western. Reverse this to Crack of Doom and finish up this. Smoke a pipe and give yourself a pat on the back! 4 pitches: 5a,5b,5b,5a.

Arthur Dolphin, John Cook, John Ball. 14/May/1944.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven., Extreme Girdle, Amazing Almscliff Amusements, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Hard Rock 2020, Traverses of trady radness, Hard Rock 2020

Feedback

User Date Notes
a pedley 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Take about 4 big cams to take the stress out of the day, great climbing, made more interesting by only have one harness, rockshoes and belay between us, not saying who forgot them, but i had all mine luckily we are the same size. Great climbing, no real route finding issues that some have mentioned, traversed in from the top of the pulpit to the chimney which isnt as decribed but seemed logical, pigeons a bit grumpy but ok, plenty of shit around though, but it adds to the character of the climb
Show beta
βeta: Take about 4 big cams to take the stress out of the day, great climbing, made more interesting by only have one harness, rockshoes and belay between us, not saying who forgot them, but i had all mine luckily we are the same size. Great climbing, no real route finding issues that some have mentioned, traversed in from the top of the pulpit to the chimney which isnt as decribed but seemed logical, pigeons a bit grumpy but ok, plenty of shit around though, but it adds to the character of the climb

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 17
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Megapurna - South face

Grade: E1 5a ***
(York (Urban))
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