UKC

23m.

Rockfax Description
A stout exercise with a problematic initial wall and a gradually steepening finale. Start just right of the Cocytus groove, beneath a tiny corner/ramp. Climb the deceptively difficult ramp, then make some fierce fingery moves above it to an easing. The leaning wall above has decent, but spaced holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Lower half originally climbed as "Torquey" (C Nicholson 9.85), later extended to the top of the buttress and renamed by Nick White.

Nick White (Torquey, C Nicholson '85) 30/May/1988.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Unfinished business , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , Autumn Road Trip , Quality 7b-7b+ in South Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
VezzaD 5 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The bolting looks terrifying from below, but it's actually absolutely fine, excluding the first bolt...definitely worth bringing a clipstick for that. Super happy with this send, got this on my second session! Was |THIS| close to getting it on my 2nd try, first session ugh. Beta warning: Tricky start up to razzy crimps and a really awkward section above the bolt (took a fall here and was fine though!). Once you manage to get stable the crimps up to the 2nd bolt are fab. Easy moves to a good no-hands-rest between bolt 2 and 3! Lovely juggy section for the top, easier than it looks from below!
Show beta
βeta: The bolting looks terrifying from below, but it's actually absolutely fine, excluding the first bolt...definitely worth bringing a clipstick for that. Super happy with this send, got this on my second session! Was |THIS| close to getting it on my 2nd try, first session ugh. Beta warning: Tricky start up to razzy crimps and a really awkward section above the bolt (took a fall here and was fine though!). Once you manage to get stable the crimps up to the 2nd bolt are fab. Easy moves to a good no-hands-rest between bolt 2 and 3! Lovely juggy section for the top, easier than it looks from below!
VezzaD 14 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Beta warning: Bolt spacing is a bit dramatic from the ground. Definitely nicer with a clip stick for the first bolt, but the rest of the bolts are actually fine. Crux at the start is a little polished so a bit condition dependent. Once you move past the crux onto the 2nd bolt it's easy but techy climbing. Got to the last bolt and in classic me-style fell between the last bolt and the anchor (attempted the route once before and couldn't remember where the jug was on my send go...). Power through the steep bit to a fabulous horn, once you've got this you should be good to the anchor. One to come back for
Show beta
βeta: Beta warning: Bolt spacing is a bit dramatic from the ground. Definitely nicer with a clip stick for the first bolt, but the rest of the bolts are actually fine. Crux at the start is a little polished so a bit condition dependent. Once you move past the crux onto the 2nd bolt it's easy but techy climbing. Got to the last bolt and in classic me-style fell between the last bolt and the anchor (attempted the route once before and couldn't remember where the jug was on my send go...). Power through the steep bit to a fabulous horn, once you've got this you should be good to the anchor. One to come back for

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Garth

Grade: 7b ***
(Hazard Quarry)

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