UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
The central line involves some very thin pulls above half-height. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Rainbow 17/Sep/2016.

Ticklists

The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Soft Touches , Cream first!

Feedback

User Date Notes
Thin Boyz 18 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: With a soft catch and a small outward jump it is safe to take a lob off the crux pre-clip and fall past the nasty ledge without injury.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: With a soft catch and a small outward jump it is safe to take a lob off the crux pre-clip and fall past the nasty ledge without injury.
Masterbeta 29 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 5th bolt should\'ve been higher to reduce the chance of hitting the ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 5th bolt should've been higher to reduce the chance of hitting the ledge
Brian H 24 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The creaky, sharp finger rail just below the crux has finally disappeared, making the crux harder. The crucial clip of the sixth bolt would now be very hard from below - would be easier to clip after the crux but this would be scary with the ledge below. I pre-placed a 60cm sling to allow clipping pre-crux and Alice and I led it that way. Probably still 7a but now higher in the grade.
Show beta
βeta: The creaky, sharp finger rail just below the crux has finally disappeared, making the crux harder. The crucial clip of the sixth bolt would now be very hard from below - would be easier to clip after the crux but this would be scary with the ledge below. I pre-placed a 60cm sling to allow clipping pre-crux and Alice and I led it that way. Probably still 7a but now higher in the grade.
ljknowles 28 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately broke the crux hold - now smaller and more of a sidepull. Crux is now definitely harder, route probably same grade overall though.
Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately broke the crux hold - now smaller and more of a sidepull. Crux is now definitely harder, route probably same grade overall though.

Logged Ascents

230 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Anstey's Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Woody's Wall

Grade: 7a ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

Loading Notifications...