Rockfax Description
60m. This classic route takes the blunt arête right of the dark chimney and completes a quartet of fine routes. Start at the lowest rocks, where the ridge is somewhat rounded.
1. 30m 4a Climb the crest to a steepening and a good stance on the right.
2. 30m 4a Above, on the crest, is a steep corner-groove. Climb up and slightly right under a steep wall for 7m, then move up and back left to finish up the crest. The final steep wall is climbed at a break.
FA W.H.Murray, D.McIntyre, May 1947 © Rockfax
Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Mountain Rock , Summer Climbing Trip , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , To Do , Greg's bucket list
User | Date | Notes | ||
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masa-alpin | 30 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Latter\'s guide \"Scottish Rock #1 South\" says \"possible in one superb 50m pitch\". Not really, as long as you follow the route, aka arete! You would struggle in 55m. 60m is definitely advisable. (I think Latter\'s guide meant you could cut short and trend left from \"mid\"-P2 or even from the beginning of the P2 – certainly you cannot follow the arete all the way in 50m.) | ||
Show beta
βeta: Latter's guide "Scottish Rock #1 South" says "possible in one superb 50m pitch". Not really, as long as you follow the route, aka arete! You would struggle in 55m. 60m is definitely advisable. (I think Latter's guide meant you could cut short and trend left from "mid"-P2 or even from the beginning of the P2 – certainly you cannot follow the arete all the way in 50m.) |
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Grade: S 6a ***
(Beinn Eighe)