UKC

90m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

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Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Lochaber Esoterica

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User Date Notes
KyleRussell 14 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Approach is steep with some steep exposed scrambling and when wet (as it was when we done it) very slippy. Pitch 1 - has one hard move just before the belay getting over the bulge. It was soaking wet when we done that pitch so we done it all in our boots but as long as you found flat holds your foot wouldn’t slip off, positive holds and plenty protection as with the full climb. Pitch 2 - Lots of loose rock! Tug on everything before weighting fully. Was still very wet rock so slippy. Pitch 3 - fantastic pitch. Very exposed vertical climbing on dry rock with very good hand holds and lots of air beneath your feet. A great pitch with some lovely moves. The “moderate scramble” after the third pitch I found difficult as you have the same extreme exposure but are no longer on rope and it had started raining so very slippery. Option to get on belay. We followed the guidebook descent down number 2 gulley scree which was absolutely fine, pretty clear path just takes a bit of time. Overall I can see why it’s just VD with the positive holds but in the wet it was more like severe.
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βeta: Approach is steep with some steep exposed scrambling and when wet (as it was when we done it) very slippy. Pitch 1 - has one hard move just before the belay getting over the bulge. It was soaking wet when we done that pitch so we done it all in our boots but as long as you found flat holds your foot wouldn’t slip off, positive holds and plenty protection as with the full climb. Pitch 2 - Lots of loose rock! Tug on everything before weighting fully. Was still very wet rock so slippy. Pitch 3 - fantastic pitch. Very exposed vertical climbing on dry rock with very good hand holds and lots of air beneath your feet. A great pitch with some lovely moves. The “moderate scramble” after the third pitch I found difficult as you have the same extreme exposure but are no longer on rope and it had started raining so very slippery. Option to get on belay. We followed the guidebook descent down number 2 gulley scree which was absolutely fine, pretty clear path just takes a bit of time. Overall I can see why it’s just VD with the positive holds but in the wet it was more like severe.

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Guidebooks for Aonach Dubh

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Archangel Route

Grade: VD ***
(Trallval)

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