Rockfax Description
140m. A fine, varied route up the soaring right-facing corner followed by a wandering line up slabs and overhangs above. The second crux-pitch is slow to dry. Start down to the right of the corner.
1. 20m Scramble up some grassy rakes to reach the base of the corner.
2. 20m 5b The strenuous, well-protected corner (crux, sometimes damp) to below an overhang.
3. 40m 4b Turn the overhang on the left and follow the easier corner above to slabs and then to a grassy bay.
4. 10m Make a short traverse right then up rightwards to belay on the left side of a spacious ledge.
5. 40m 5a A sustained pitch. From the left end of the ledge pull onto the steep wall (bold) trending left to a ledge and corner above. Turn the corner on the right and make an ascending traverse right to a groove and crack. Climb these to a slab beneath an overhang and traverse right to a rocky bay.
6. 10m 4b Finish by a right-slanting groove and a short crack above.
5a. Alt. finish: 4c A clean corner can be climbed direct, then with easier climbing to the top.
FA J.Falkener, C.Higgins, Jun 1965 © Rockfax

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