UKC

Climbs 113
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 73m a.s.l
Faces N

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Crispy climbing Ahtarmas, 5a at Arginonta Valley, a newly developed crag on Kalymnos. October 2016 © Crispy Haddock

Crag features

Arginonta Valley was created to fill the need in Kalymnos for more hot-weather crags with lots of shade, with an emphasis on quality mid and low grade routes, along with an easy approach.

They are North-facing, well bolted, and offer a highly enjoyable selection of lines.

Climbing is varied, the majority of routes being slabs into vertical walls, but these are interspersed with bulges and some steep overhangs, all on good holds.

Routes come into the shade from around 11.30am and for the rest of the day. The valley often has a cool breeze blowing in from the sea making hot days a lot more bearable.

NB. Black Buddha - In summer around the solstice, BB has minimal shade and does not come into the “all day shade” category. Late June early July this crag is in the sun  

 

Approach notes

From Massouri, go to Arginonta Village. Immediately after a small honey shop on the right, turn right into a concrete car park, go through the car park and onto a concrete road between some houses for 200m. The concrete road turns to a gravel track, go 50m further and park in the shade of the old olive trees on the right. Walk 300m further up the track, past the sheep pens on the right until you see a large metal gate on your right. Don't try and go through the fence lower down the track onto the old path as this forms part of the sheep pen and will cause trouble with the shepherd. Close the metal gate behind you and it's then an easy walk up the hill to the crag.

For Black Buddha sector the approach advice in the latest guide book might be found confusing and lead to lost time among the olive trees or dodging bees!. It should read: From the parking walk say 100 metres back down the gravel road to a dirt track going half left then doubling back left and becoming a path to reach the obvious deep gully up which the approach goes before leaving it at a cairn to zigzag across the hillside to the crag.

For Comic Tree - Along the road to Arginonta from Kasteli, stop at the drainage grate around 100m from the first, large house on the right of the road. (37.014321, 26.963052) 
Follow the cairns up a steep slope, including some scrambling on scree, until you reach the crag. Around 25 minutes walk.

Access Advice

The climb Kalymnos website has recently published new access advice and warns climbers that the land owner is not happy with people accessing the Crag through gaps in the fence. Continue up the valley until almost past the cliffs to the obvious rather grand new gate.

Watch out for rats at the base of the right hand face. One tore into a rucksac trying to get at food.
Steve Clegg - 21/Oct/16
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Climbs at this crag

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