Start 2m below the first bolt on Dream River. Left hand on the arête and right hand on a crimp to the right. Finish at the white block next to the first bolt of the Dream River route.
Ellis Butler-Barker Nov/2014.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BrusselSprout | 4 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Started right hand on the sidepull-tufa-crimp and left on the edge below as per FAs video on youtube (Preposanne Font 8B). Pull on, place right heel, move left hand out to bad pinch, generate momentum and slap to left hand jug on arete (crux). Nice moves from here on big holds. Finished on the big white block to the right of Dream river bolt where catching and matching this was second crux (I dropped this from the start around ten times). Sequence was right foot heel-toe cam, slap left hand to sloper, pull through to pinch the block with right hand. With the hard first and last move it felt more like 7A+ but there may have been a more efficient beta. Sick line. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Started right hand on the sidepull-tufa-crimp and left on the edge below as per FAs video on youtube (Preposanne Font 8B). Pull on, place right heel, move left hand out to bad pinch, generate momentum and slap to left hand jug on arete (crux). Nice moves from here on big holds. Finished on the big white block to the right of Dream river bolt where catching and matching this was second crux (I dropped this from the start around ten times). Sequence was right foot heel-toe cam, slap left hand to sloper, pull through to pinch the block with right hand. With the hard first and last move it felt more like 7A+ but there may have been a more efficient beta. Sick line. |
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Route of Interest
Feldspar Fracas
Grade: f7A ***
(Bonehill Rocks)