UKC

8m. The next groove after Cracking lockdown. Start as low down in the brambles as desired, follow the groove to a roof, pull over and left. Some loose rock.
Alternmatively pull straight up and follow the groove to the top, with big rockover. Critical hold is loose and needs care.

Ron Lake and Guy Howard 15/Oct/2020.

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guyhoward 12 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Four years after doimg this with Ron, I went back with Dave and straightened the route so rather than stepping left at the overhang, followed the groove up with a a big rockover, which is probably harder than 5a. The critical hold needs care -when held right it doesnt move, hold too far to one side it moves at least 1/2 inch. Crux protected by IMP 1 and 3, so possibly not VS.
βeta?
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βeta: Four years after doimg this with Ron, I went back with Dave and straightened the route so rather than stepping left at the overhang, followed the groove up with a a big rockover, which is probably harder than 5a. The critical hold needs care -when held right it doesnt move, hold too far to one side it moves at least 1/2 inch. Crux protected by IMP 1 and 3, so possibly not VS.

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Red Lead

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Auchinstarry Quarry)

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