UKC

An enjoyable route with a finely placed crux. Climb the centre of the white slab to a horizontal break. Step down and left to a hidden layback crack. Follow the crack and traverse left across Whiplash to a thin diagonal crack. Climb this (crux) and the vertical crack above, finishing at the same point as Mascarade
Update 9th June 2020 - There is a bat family nesting in the crack on white slab. Please do not climb Red Lead via white slab face. Please take the original route which trends directly up left to the layback flake from the belay spike. Don't go directly up white slab with a view to moving left higher up. Thanks. Chris (Milesy)

J Kerry, F Yeoman Sep/1977.

Ticklists

Central Belt - Local Classics , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , 50 Top Scottish VS's , The Preston Ticklist , Lowland Outcrops *** (Trad and Sport) , Scottish Central Belt VS

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User Date Notes
Rob McGurk 24 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Abseiling is the most logical approach
βeta?
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βeta: Abseiling is the most logical approach
ShannonSviolin 16 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route.
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βeta: Fantastic route.
Mike-W-99 1 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The big flake at the crux visibly flexed when I pulled on it today(01/07/2019)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The big flake at the crux visibly flexed when I pulled on it today(01/07/2019)

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Guidebooks for Auchinstarry Quarry

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Low VS
High HS
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Low HS
Votes cast 89
High 5b
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Low 5b
High 5a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
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