UKC Logbook - 'The Return of the King'

The open groove 3m Right of Lion is very low in the grade and has some nice intricate climbing. Tackle it direct past a rest ledge on the left. Take LOTS of small wires and little else. Use holds on the Right wall to assist the exit up a shallower groove.

R. Wallace, A. Wallace 12/Oct/2003.

Ticklists

Central Belt - Local Classics , Lowland Outcrops *** (Trad and Sport) , Edinburgh trad progression Hvs, E1 and E2s

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User	Date		Notes
tompercy	28 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Large hold came off on the top slab. On the positive side there is now a decent incut foothold - on the downside it is 35cm lower down than the former jug making the top out move a touch more committing…	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Large hold came off on the top slab. On the positive side there is now a decent incut foothold - on the downside it is 35cm lower down than the former jug making the top out move a touch more committing…
TheLadd	2 Jun	Show βeta βeta: Block 3/4 way up on left which is useful for hands and feet to fall off for whoever climbs it next, doesn't impact gear but do let the belayer know! Would best if someone ab'd down and knocked it out if poss.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Block 3/4 way up on left which is useful for hands and feet to fall off for whoever climbs it next, doesn't impact gear but do let the belayer know! Would best if someone ab'd down and knocked it out if poss.
JamesBennettclimbs#1	3 Apr	Show βeta βeta: I took advice and set up a sling for a quick clip because the top out would be awful without. I brought lots of small nuts but wished I had taken 3 sets of small nuts and doubled up on the smallest cams. Micronuts where useful. Lots of protection to be had though. You probably also want a 60m rope because the tree anchor is set miles back. Bring 3x 240cm slings for various anchors.
Show beta βeta: I took advice and set up a sling for a quick clip because the top out would be awful without. I brought lots of small nuts but wished I had taken 3 sets of small nuts and doubled up on the smallest cams. Micronuts where useful. Lots of protection to be had though. You probably also want a 60m rope because the tree anchor is set miles back. Bring 3x 240cm slings for various anchors.
sineadthin	2 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Block fell off, dont think it has changed the grade	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Block fell off, dont think it has changed the grade
Pina	14 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Route has been cleaned thoroughly as of 12/06/19. Noted a couple of loose blocks at the overhang, beware.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Route has been cleaned thoroughly as of 12/06/19. Noted a couple of loose blocks at the overhang, beware.