UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A mix of trad and bolts. Climb up to a ledge below a groove. A long reach and hard pull to the first bolt gain the wall above. Sustained climbing then leads past two more bolts to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Groove just left of the tunnel, 3 bolts to a lower off.

Ian LLoyd Jones, B Llewelyn 20/Apr/1990.

Ticklists

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User Date Notes
Toby Boud 2 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Cams at start, then very run out between bolts. Was a little green in places
Show beta
βeta: Cams at start, then very run out between bolts. Was a little green in places
Paulos87 4 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock higher up
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock higher up

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 27
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lot's Groove

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Glyder Fach)

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