Rockfax Description
The appalling chimney is classic Kay/Crook territory. It has probably fallen down several times since the first ascent and will continue to do so - not recommended.
1) 4b, 40m. Climb the appalling looking cracked pillar to a cleft. Kevlar umbrella essential for belayer.
2) 5b, 40m. Bridge up with a feeling of impending doom. Pass stacked blocks with trepidation (more for the belayer), then make a final mantel onto scree and head up it quicker than it is raining down on your belayer! © Rockfax
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Grade: XS 5b ***
(Cilan Head)