UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
A trick start leads to easier climbing higher up. The spaced bolts make it feel exciting - it might be better viewed as an E3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4 bolts to a lower off, hard technical moves low down...originally given E3 6b has since been retro bolted.

Ian Lloyd-Jones Oct/1990.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+ , Sl@teheads Sl@te

Feedback

User Date Notes
ollie1 14 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The lower off bolts at the top have green cable ties round them and seem loose.. there's a mallion on a bolt below you can back it up with.
βeta?
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βeta: The lower off bolts at the top have green cable ties round them and seem loose.. there's a mallion on a bolt below you can back it up with.
Tall Oak 22 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I dont think I did the start right, so not claiming the tick. Have to go back for some repeat sessioning soon
βeta?
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βeta: I dont think I did the start right, so not claiming the tick. Have to go back for some repeat sessioning soon
ian bryant 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Recent rockfall (Aug 2021?) Just left of the lower section of this route has left a guillotine waiting to fall just left of its base
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Recent rockfall (Aug 2021?) Just left of the lower section of this route has left a guillotine waiting to fall just left of its base

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
G'Day Arete

Grade: 6c ***
(Australia)

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