UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
The groove on the left edge of the slab is short, reasonably straightforward and protected by small wires. Exit by meandering up loose ledges and gaining the level above to belay as for Looning the Tube on a bolt at the base of the slab above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The slabby corner before the tube face.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Matthew Hill 29 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I decked to the floor from 5m. Don't climb with cold shoes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I decked to the floor from 5m. Don't climb with cold shoes.
Jeremy Rodgers 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The protection (if any) has gone. Technically straightforward but now more exposed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The protection (if any) has gone. Technically straightforward but now more exposed.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 20
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manx Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)

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