UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
A great route with a hard rockover. Climb up to a small ledge, then foot traverse the break until you can climb up past a bolt to a second break. Mantel this and clip a bolt on the right, then traverse left to another bolt, and make a hard move past it. A further thin move leads to jugs and the lower-off. © Rockfax

Andy Swann 20/Apr/1986.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Slate Mastery , May Trip Target List , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
elinlois 27 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for the grade
βeta?
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βeta: Easy for the grade
Glyn Davies 18 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The second jug at the top of the route is very loose, but have no idea for how long it's been like that. A downward pull is probably OK ?
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βeta: The second jug at the top of the route is very loose, but have no idea for how long it's been like that. A downward pull is probably OK ?
dynoseb 15 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Cruxy slap (if your\'e short) around mid height, then run out but straight forward climbing.
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βeta: Cruxy slap (if your'e short) around mid height, then run out but straight forward climbing.
Moi_taiga 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Last hold is loose
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βeta: Last hold is loose

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 172
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 163
Votes cast 162
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Integral Direct

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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