Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.


Rockfax Description
An interesting route, mostly on good rock. Climb to a high bolt. Move right along the ledge and climb the stepped, low-relief rib up the back wall of the bay. A direct start is possible at 6c, but you need to pre-thread the bore hole prior to leading it, unless it is in place. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the stepped, low-relief rib that starts from a ledge system about 8 m up the back wall of the bay between Ayers and Graces and Ayer Head. Interest is well maintained from the start of the rib onward. Start about 4 m R of Ayer Head. Climb the lower wall (bolt) to the ledge system, move R to the rib and follow it past a couple of awkward steps. Continue up the system of grooves above to a final rock over R to the lower off. Some blocky flake handholds and sidepulls assist the final rockover. They appear well-wedged but treat them carefully.

Harold Walmsley 24/Jul/2014.


All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+ , Slate Mastery


User Date Notes
Colin Scotchford 21 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Appears to be prone to seepage/run off. I'd suggest waiting for a dry spell before walking up for this one
Show beta
βeta: Appears to be prone to seepage/run off. I'd suggest waiting for a dry spell before walking up for this one

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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
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