UKC

15m.

Rockfax Description
The original line of this wall used to start up the tube... until it fell down! Traverse out across the slab passing a bolt before moving up and right to the rusty spike. From here, follow the groove up and left past a cam slot. A hard move past a bolt leads to easier climbing to the level above. Belay way back off a spike and bolt at the base of the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A curious route above the broken pipe which is fast becoming popular. It has a reputation for being bold in places. Having tethered your belayer down, make a delicate rising traverse rightwards across the slab, past a bolt, to the rusting chain (sling at top) and slanting crack. Climb this via another bolt to finish.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welsh Slate Trad , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , LSMC to do , The Llanberis list , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slab Dreams , Year 2 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simonroberts1985 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places.
JaySheppard 6 May Show βeta
βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear.
Butty 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route
βeta?
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βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route
hotfeet 11 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There\'s a loose hold near the top of the climb.
βeta?
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βeta: There's a loose hold near the top of the climb.
JamesHopper 29 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about
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βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about
Jack Manfredi 27 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better
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βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better
jrobinson 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt
βeta?
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βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt
Llosgi 14 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top.
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βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top.
FerClimbs 28 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall.
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βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall.
AngusAnderson 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam)
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βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam)
iainJ 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack
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βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack
lithos 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd
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βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd

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High E2
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Votes cast 469
High 5b
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Votes cast 427
Votes cast 405
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vember

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

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