July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
The original line of this wall used to start up the tube... until it fell down! Traverse out across the slab passing a bolt before moving up and right to the rusty spike. From here, follow the groove up and left past a cam slot. A hard move past a bolt leads to easier climbing to the level above. Belay way back off a spike and bolt at the base of the wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A curious route above the broken pipe which is fast becoming popular. It has a reputation for being bold in places. Having tethered your belayer down, make a delicate rising traverse rightwards across the slab, past a bolt, to the rusting chain (sling at top) and slanting crack. Climb this via another bolt to finish.
Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welsh Slate Trad , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , LSMC to do , The Llanberis list , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slab Dreams , Year 2 ticklist , Llidberis , Slate Goals , Dewimpification , Top 25 routes , Recommended Slate , British Rock Tour April '24
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jamiespiers | 20 Jun |
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βeta: HVS, never E1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: HVS, never E1 |
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David Clover | 25 May |
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βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power.... | ||
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βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power.... |
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Becky Habgood | 23 Apr |
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βeta: Bolt near top spins! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bolt near top spins! |
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rosienewmah | 2 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea | βeta? | |
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βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea |
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Simonroberts1985 | 9 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places. | ||
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βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places. |
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JaySheppard | 6 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear. |
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Butty | 22 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route | ||
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βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route |
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hotfeet | 11 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: There\'s a loose hold near the top of the climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's a loose hold near the top of the climb. |
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JamesHopper | 29 May, 2021 |
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βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about | ||
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βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about |
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JManfredi | 27 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better | ||
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βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better |
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jrobinson | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt |
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Llosgi | 14 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top. | ||
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βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top. |
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FerClimbs | 28 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall. | ||
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βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall. |
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AngusAnderson | 4 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam) | ||
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βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam) |
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iainJ | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack | ||
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βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack |
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lithos | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd | ||
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βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)