Rockfax Description
The original line of this wall used to start up the tube... until it fell down! Traverse out across the slab passing a bolt before moving up and right to the rusty spike. From here, follow the groove up and left past a cam slot. A hard move past a bolt leads to easier climbing to the level above. Belay way back off a spike and bolt at the base of the wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A curious route above the broken pipe which is fast becoming popular. It has a reputation for being bold in places. Having tethered your belayer down, make a delicate rising traverse rightwards across the slab, past a bolt, to the rusting chain (sling at top) and slanting crack. Climb this via another bolt to finish.
Ticklists
Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Welsh Slate Trad , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Mastery , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , LSMC to do , The Llanberis list , Wales Trip - 2022 , Slab Dreams , Year 2 ticklist , Llidberis , Slate Goals , Dewimpification , Top 25 routes , Recommended Slate , British Rock Tour April '24 , UKC Route Spotlight (insta) , UMC ticklist for the turbo punter (Trad) , Most Popular First E1 , Climbs That Give Me A Woody , 2025 January NW Trip , Gogarth , Before Uni Ends , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tomhepworth | 2 Jan |
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βeta: Bolts might need a look at soon. Bottom one looked a bit bent (perhaps from the wall being pushed off the top?). Top one was stuck rotated about 90 degrees off the angle it should be. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bolts might need a look at soon. Bottom one looked a bit bent (perhaps from the wall being pushed off the top?). Top one was stuck rotated about 90 degrees off the angle it should be. |
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| IPlaceBoltsAtStanage | 5 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: Not really changed all that much after the rockfall. The tube is gone past the boulder but the climbing is all the same. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not really changed all that much after the rockfall. The tube is gone past the boulder but the climbing is all the same. |
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| TCarrick | 16 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Unfortunately, someone has pushed the wall above Looning the Tube down, the route is probably still ok, but the first bolt was damaged and most of the traverse has been beaten up a bit. Take care if trying it! | ||
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βeta: Unfortunately, someone has pushed the wall above Looning the Tube down, the route is probably still ok, but the first bolt was damaged and most of the traverse has been beaten up a bit. Take care if trying it! |
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| jamiespiers | 20 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: HVS, never E1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: HVS, never E1 |
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| David Clover | 25 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power.... | ||
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βeta: Double up on cam size 4 if you value holding power.... |
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| Becky Habgood | 23 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Bolt near top spins! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bolt near top spins! |
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| rosienewmah | 2 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea | βeta? | |
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βeta: Turns out leading bold slab on two days worth of hangover anxiety wasnt the greatest idea |
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| Simonroberts1985 | 9 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places. | ||
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βeta: Great route, not hard just run out in places. |
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| JaySheppard | 6 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fund to do again, this time on 2nd. I consider it leg training carrying up a big bag of gear. |
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| Butty | 22 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route | ||
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βeta: Very enjoyable route!! Steady away to the first bolt, pretty thin to the chain. Good feet up to the crux , a hard pull and it's over!! Fab route |
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| hotfeet | 11 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: There\'s a loose hold near the top of the climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's a loose hold near the top of the climb. |
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| JamesHopper | 29 May, 2021 |
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βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about | ||
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βeta: First route on the slate it’s fine clipping the bolt I’m not sure what zac was talking about |
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| JManfredi | 27 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better | ||
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βeta: Stuck blue cam is no longer there. Gold dragon fits far better |
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| jrobinson | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large loose spike hold above last bolt |
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| Llosgi | 14 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top. | ||
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βeta: Good spike for belayer to attach too, while lead climbs up to first bolt. Once past chain and inside the crack, there is a blue cam stuck. good sustained climbing up to next bolt, careful top out with loose slate at top. |
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| FerClimbs | 28 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall. | ||
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βeta: It would benefit from a bolt at the beginning. You basically solo until the first bolt around 5 metres from the beginning with pretty bad consequences for you and your belayer if you fall. |
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| AngusAnderson | 4 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam) | ||
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βeta: Only need 4 QD’s and no gear (2 bolts, chain, stuck cam) |
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| iainJ | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack | ||
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βeta: Blue dragon stuck in the middle part of the crack |
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| lithos | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd | ||
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βeta: 2qds for bolts, 2 slings, 1 friend 3+qd |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Australia
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Super Direct
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)