UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic trad line, which is about 10m right of the base of Clash of the Titans, in a small bay. Climb up into a cleft to where a crack leads up a slab to the level above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
the obvious crack in the wall to the right of the main wall, where the crag drops to half hight

Ticklists

North wales road to ruins HVS , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020

Feedback

User Date Notes
Butty 22 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Good route with gear from start to finish. Leave your wires behind bomber cams all the way!!
Show beta
βeta: Good route with gear from start to finish. Leave your wires behind bomber cams all the way!!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 74
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
One Step in the Clouds

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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