UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the narrow pillar at the left-hand end of the level. The top move is very hard. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The front face of the obvious bolted pillar on the left as you walk onto level.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c

Feedback

User Date Notes
PJPK1111 29 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Second bolt missing
βeta?
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βeta: Second bolt missing
joedonn 21 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very Loose 2nd Bolt, Please don't use as i suspect it would pull in a fall
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βeta: Very Loose 2nd Bolt, Please don't use as i suspect it would pull in a fall
liamhughes1981 20 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hanger and bolt is loose on second bolt. I bailed as it a lead fall I think would pull the bolt out
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βeta: Hanger and bolt is loose on second bolt. I bailed as it a lead fall I think would pull the bolt out
PilkingtonD 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hanger on 2nd bolt is loose
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βeta: Hanger on 2nd bolt is loose
MarkFoster 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Second bolt was loose. Check before committing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second bolt was loose. Check before committing.

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