July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
To the right of a shattered pillar leaning against the crag is a large cleaned slab. This route follows the left side of the slab, and is pitch 4 of A Grand Day Out. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the large slab left of Lindy Lou on the Skyline Butress, 13 bolts lead the way, belay on the large flake. A larger than usual easy slate route.
Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett, Sam Beesley (all lead) 15/Apr/2009.
Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+ , ULMC Classics , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Starred Slate Sport Sixes , Sl@teheads Sl@te , Slate Mastery , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , Year 2 ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Robert Tanulak | 7 May |
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βeta: longer draws needed as bolts zig zag a little in places | βeta? | |
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βeta: longer draws needed as bolts zig zag a little in places |
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Thin Boyz | 13 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Some loose blocks at mid-top height, extendable qds are also invaluable for the bottom section. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some loose blocks at mid-top height, extendable qds are also invaluable for the bottom section. |
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Sl@te Head | 28 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: In response to a few comments below. This route does not have a lower off due to its length and due to the fact that many climbers would not have a 70 or 80 metre rope! Sensibly belay at the top and enjoy the view. The bolt spacing and placements (zigzaging) were due to finding the most solid slate to drill and of course avoiding any hollow sounding placements... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: In response to a few comments below. This route does not have a lower off due to its length and due to the fact that many climbers would not have a 70 or 80 metre rope! Sensibly belay at the top and enjoy the view. The bolt spacing and placements (zigzaging) were due to finding the most solid slate to drill and of course avoiding any hollow sounding placements... |
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BarwoodP | 15 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: great route to repeat, just remember to belay from the top of the route | βeta? | |
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βeta: great route to repeat, just remember to belay from the top of the route |
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paulinepavlova | 20 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Couple of bolts at the top out, so possible to just belay from top, if don\'t have long enough rope to lower back down | βeta? | |
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βeta: Couple of bolts at the top out, so possible to just belay from top, if don't have long enough rope to lower back down |
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