UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the flake/groove, with a tricky move up the cleaned slab above. Two bolts to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Route at the left of the wall before the tunnel. Climb the flake/groove, with a tricky move up the cleaned slab above. 1 bolt to a lower off (the second bolt has been chopped off). Not an sport route. Protection in the upper section is nearly non existent.

Jim Kelly , Julia Kelly 14/May/2009.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c

Feedback

User Date Notes
SuperLee1985 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Climbable safely using the upper bolt from the neighbouring route, you'll swing if you fall, but into space (Alex tested this!). But agree a trad grade would be more appropriate (also felt harder than 5a).
βeta?
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βeta: Climbable safely using the upper bolt from the neighbouring route, you'll swing if you fall, but into space (Alex tested this!). But agree a trad grade would be more appropriate (also felt harder than 5a).
AledOddy 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bolt missing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolt missing
FerClimbs 12 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route has only one bolt at 3-4 metres from the ground and then 6 metres of unprotected climb. I think it should not have an sport grade but a trad grade. Pretty bold as it is now as the upper section is nearly impossible to protect.
βeta?
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βeta: This route has only one bolt at 3-4 metres from the ground and then 6 metres of unprotected climb. I think it should not have an sport grade but a trad grade. Pretty bold as it is now as the upper section is nearly impossible to protect.
FatRob 12 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd Bolt is missing, looks like it\'s sheared off!
Show beta
βeta: 2nd Bolt is missing, looks like it's sheared off!

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