UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

11m.

Rockfax Description
© Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Follows the line of bolts to the left of Glass Axe on The Sidings level of Australia. 3 bolts to lower off

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
PJPK1111 29 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Missing one bolt from anchor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Missing one bolt from anchor.
Rhaegalex 10 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Left anchor bolt came out as I was cleaning, left it at the base of the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left anchor bolt came out as I was cleaning, left it at the base of the route
Ed Roome 7 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Cool route, very sequencey for 6a tho
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cool route, very sequencey for 6a tho
*superchilled 11 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Left-hand anchor bolt is loose. Also some suspect rock low down
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left-hand anchor bolt is loose. Also some suspect rock low down

Logged Ascents

251 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Australia

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 20 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Loading Notifications...