UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
Climb the slabby wall to the right of Cyber World Sl@te Heads. Some nice stepped edges lead to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the slaby wall to the right of Cyber World Sl@te Heads. 2 bolts lead to a ledge 3 further bolts and some nice stepped edges lead the way to a 2 bolt lower off.

Mark Chambers, Christian Roots, Ian Pagano 02/Mar/2008.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c , Sl@teheads Sl@te , LSMC to do , Summertime Travels 2022 , Slate Pyramid

Feedback

User Date Notes
Vertical Gardener 17 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Feels quite run-out
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels quite run-out
JaySheppard 6 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty pleasant
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty pleasant

Logged Ascents

1957 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Australia

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 113 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 145
Votes cast 143
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Loading Notifications...