UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant line with three distinct difficult sections. Climb up and right, passing two bolts to a jug, and the third bolt. Move back left and up to the fourth bolt. There is a sling placement if you want it where the route crosses Last Chance For a Slow Dance, then continue past the fifth bolt to the double lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant line with three distinct difficult sections. Start about 10m to the right of `Last Chance For a Slow Dance`,move up and right passing the first two bolts to a jug and the third bolt. then back left and up to the fourth (crux), a sling placement if you want it where it crosses LCFASD, then past the fifth bolt to the double lower off! really nice climbing!

Chris Davies and Phil Targettt 17/Oct/2009.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+ , Slate Mastery

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User Date Notes
The9inger 17 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt hanger currently missing
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βeta: First bolt hanger currently missing

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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Choose Life

Grade: 7a ***
(Bryn Eglwys Quarry)

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