UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
Make a move past the overlap and follow five bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start left of scarface claw. pull over the overlap and follow 5 bolts leading to a lower off.

P Targett + I Lloyd-Jones(Both Led) 22/Jun/2007.

Ticklists

Slate Sport , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+ , Starred Slate Sport Sixes

Feedback

User Date Notes
string arms 22 Feb Show βeta
βeta: This was a little harder on the first ascent but when Ian made his lead he pulled a hold off leaving a jug.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was a little harder on the first ascent but when Ian made his lead he pulled a hold off leaving a jug.
Glyn Davies 12 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The first bolt is almost all the way out, nut and hanger completely undone, I could almost pull it out completely - dangerous. We clip-sticked the second bolt for safety.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first bolt is almost all the way out, nut and hanger completely undone, I could almost pull it out completely - dangerous. We clip-sticked the second bolt for safety.
Jacob Manu Wood 4 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: first bolt was a bit loose
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first bolt was a bit loose

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Rock Bottom Line P1

Grade: 6b ***
(Twll Mawr)

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