UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A diagonal crack-line makes up the meat of this route and eats cams of all sizes (best to double up if possible).
1) 6a, 27m. Climb the crack with difficulty to reach a 'good' hold. More sustained climbing leads onto a ledge. Despite the crack being easier above, it is also considerably wider, with all the issues that come with that. There is a bolt belay 3m back.
2) 5b, 18m. The crack is followed again, but before it peters out, move left to good holds and follow them to a bolt. Mantel up into the groove and continue to the tree and belay on a boulder. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Enter the bottom of Australia through the tunnels and take a left. A striking leftwards slanting crack line should become visible. P1- Climb the crack plugging as many cams as your arms will allow up to the grassy ledge (Double bolt belay). P2- Leave the ledge on the right up the crack then trend leftwards towards a bolt finishing up the obvious groove to a sapling.

Jon Ratcliffe and Steve Franklin 09/Jun/2009.

Ticklists

Slate 2018/2019 , Slate crack hitlist

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cream

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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