UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

25m.

Rockfax Description
The furthest left arete of the level. Follow the sharp arete on its right-hand side with occasional excursions right onto the slab. Finish with unusual moves in a fine position on the very crest of the undercut upper arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The arete at the extreme L end of the "Below Pans" level. Gain the start by stepping down a small wall at the extreme L end of this level or by traversing R from the start of A Grand Day Out. Climb the arete on its R side with occasional excursions on to the slab. Finish with unusual moves in a dramatic position on the hanging upper arete.

C. Struthers, H Walmsley 10/Nov/2013.

Ticklists

Slate ArĂȘtes (sport) , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+ , Slate Mastery , Covid19 Summer Slate Targets , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Slate Pyramid , Slate Goals , Recommended Slate

Feedback

User Date Notes
BarwoodP 8 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: That end is crazy. super fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: That end is crazy. super fun
Paul Robertson 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: When lowering, take care not to swing around the arete, particularly low down where you could hit some sharp boulders
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When lowering, take care not to swing around the arete, particularly low down where you could hit some sharp boulders

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zone of Totality

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Minllyn Quarry)

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