Small but perfectly formed, via ferrata Averau is a justifiably popular excursion for families and ferrata enthusiasts. The route is largely without difficulties - perhaps the hardest part being avoiding the oncoming traffic. Although perhaps not the most exciting ferrata, it is not without interest and leads to a fantastic summit with commanding views over much of the Dolomites. There are some sections of loose scree between cables, so be aware of other climbers around you. Apart from one small section, the route is reversed entirely on the descent.
The route is often combined with Ferrata Gusela, a short protected path which ascends the southeast side of Nuvolau.
Approach - From the Cinque Torri lift, or the access track to the towers, ascend path 439 - a good vehicle track which leads directly to Rifugio Averau. Alternatively, from Rifugio Fedare take the chair which deposits you directly by Rifugio Averau, or walk up another good vehicle track, marked 464. From the Giau Pass itself, follow the scenic path 452 to join the vehicle track just below the saddle.
From Rifugio Averau, follow a path to the north, following a small wooden sign for 'Ferrata Averau'. This contours over scree around the base of the face to reach the start of the wire.
VF - The route begins in a small gully with vertical but straightforward climbing. Continue easily to reach a fork in the wire. The right-hand fork (a short technical face) is the best way up, with the left-hand fork (a narrow chimney) taken on the descent to avoid bottlenecking. Continue up the right-hand fork which leads vertically then follow a ledge rightwards. Another vertical section leads to a gully which is followed to the right to exit onto a shoulder. From here, follow the cairned path over scree with a few larger steps for about 15 minutes, until some final switchbacks lead to the flat summit plateau and the cross. The views from the summit are spectacular, stretching over to Civetta, Pelmo, the Pala Dolomites and the nearby Lagazuoi and Tofana ranges.
Descent - Retrace the route in its entirety. Where the via ferrata wire splits it is usual to take the right fork (looking down) descending through a narrow chimney. This however is usually dependant on the traffic moving in the opposite direction and most times you just have to go with the flow. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Only a short section of VF, but has a split route (chimney & face) for interest. Unprotected scree based upper slopes trickiest part! Great views from the top.
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