A classic route which takes the line of least resistance up Averau's southwest face. The traverse at half-height is exhilarating and exposed but is technically easier than it looks with excellent holds. The line is logical but nevertheless not without route-finding issues because there are many possible variants on the first two pitches. An excellent climb and perfect for a half-day outing or combined with some of the short trad or sport routes at nearby Cinque Torri. The views from the summit are superb.
Start to the left of the pinnacle, below a chimney formed by the pinnacle and the yellow face on the left.
1) IV, 30m. Climb the chimney for 20m, first on the left then on the right, overcoming a vertical section on the pinnacle itself direct. Exit onto scree and continue in the chimney on the left. Climb this with a couple of trickier but well-protected moves to a good stance on a ledge (don't be tempted by tat further to the right).
2) IV+, 35m. Move diagonally left and climb a short gully to a ledge. Continue up a leaning pillar with some delicate climbing to belay on a small ledge. Alternatively, traverse the first ledge left to a peg, then ascend a couple of metres before traversing back right to reach the second ledge.
3) IV, 25m. Follow the ledge left under the steep wall above for 10m to reach two parallel cracks. Climb the left one then move right to reach a belay below a crack.
4) IV+, 20m. Don't climb the crack but instead make a wonderfully exposed traverse with excellent holds. Continue to reach a yellow niche with a good belay (cemented ring) on the far wall (route book).
5) IV, 35m. Exit the niche on the right with some exposed moves, then continue ascending slightly rightwards for a few metres before moving back left to a flake. Follow this, continue a few metres above it, then move back right to a good stance.
6) IV-, 30m. Climb a gully moving left below two yellow niches. Continue to the niches, traverse right below them then climb direct on their right. Move back left to a flake and continue to the belay.
7) IV-, 30m. An enjoyable slab leads to a sloping ledge (some loose scree so be aware of your second and any parties below) and belay just below the summit cross. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Devious line up the SW face. Steep for the grade. Features a short traverse into a cave that will live long in the memory.
Approach: Walk or take lift from Passo Giau to Rif Averau. From Rif. take trail to Falzarego pass for 5 mins to beneath obvious chimney left of Averau's south arete. Walk steeply up to the foot of the chimney (50 mins).
Descent: Take the paths and VF northwards back down to the Rif Averau 25 mins. Walk or lift down to Passo Giau.
Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Big Routes , Dolomites Trip
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