UKC

42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic climb covering some impressive ground for the grade. Start at a large tree belay on the left of Lunchtime Ledge.
1) 24m. Traverse left across the smooth slab and then move left around the base of a big block overhang. Follow the corner above past a small tree to another tree and belay ledge.
2) 18m. Behind the tree is a blank looking wall. Climb this rightwards on good hidden holds to reach a large rock anchor bolt. Continue up a corner to a big overhang and pass it steeply using huge holds to easier ground and an abrupt finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is now a belay stake hidden just to the right of the broken fence. Also 2m to the left a fence post is ok to use. Do not belay across the path

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , I want a Pasty! , Evening Wall Complete Collection , Avon Gorge easier classics , Best of the Gorge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ewan_Craig 1 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Possibly not an ideal route in the wet, the first slab traverse is slick.
Show beta
βeta: Possibly not an ideal route in the wet, the first slab traverse is slick.
rosienewmah 12 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Spicier that usual due to the proximity of the peregrine falcons very own lunchtime ledge. Apparently they weren't aware that their bird ban ends about 50 metres left of this climb. I can now add peregrines to the list of birds I've been bombed by. Would not recommend to a friend
βeta?
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βeta: Spicier that usual due to the proximity of the peregrine falcons very own lunchtime ledge. Apparently they weren't aware that their bird ban ends about 50 metres left of this climb. I can now add peregrines to the list of birds I've been bombed by. Would not recommend to a friend
Calamity_Cate 11 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: After a nice amble up the Arete we settled on Bob's Climb to get to the top of the gorge - mostly because it was the first sunny day in ages and all the other routes we'd planned were taken. We had a lovely saunter up the first pitch and were both sitting at the anchor, enjoying the view, swapping over gear, when the Peregrinsident occurred. Despite being outside of the nesting restriction period we suddenly noticed a Falcon sitting 7m above us. After initially making awed exclamations about its beauty we realised it was staring us out, and it was sitting on a load of feathers, and most concerningly it was on the direct line of the route... ...then we heard the unmistakable screech of a 2nd Peregrin, and looked out over the gorge to see one leaving Leigh woods and heading straight for us. At pace. Lifting up. Tucking wings in. I've never been within 10m of a flying falcon, let alone one headed directly at my head. And I never want to again. Thankful it scared off the first bird and turned and swooped away. After some recovery and consideration time (we knew there couldn't be any young up there, they weren't coming back, we didn't really want to down climb etc. etc.) we decided to carry the f*** on as quickly as possible. The final pitch of Bob's Climb offers some lovely climbing, despite being covered in bones, feathers, wings and other remnants of the Peregrin's occupation. Gruesome but lovely route. Would recommend.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After a nice amble up the Arete we settled on Bob's Climb to get to the top of the gorge - mostly because it was the first sunny day in ages and all the other routes we'd planned were taken. We had a lovely saunter up the first pitch and were both sitting at the anchor, enjoying the view, swapping over gear, when the Peregrinsident occurred. Despite being outside of the nesting restriction period we suddenly noticed a Falcon sitting 7m above us. After initially making awed exclamations about its beauty we realised it was staring us out, and it was sitting on a load of feathers, and most concerningly it was on the direct line of the route... ...then we heard the unmistakable screech of a 2nd Peregrin, and looked out over the gorge to see one leaving Leigh woods and heading straight for us. At pace. Lifting up. Tucking wings in. I've never been within 10m of a flying falcon, let alone one headed directly at my head. And I never want to again. Thankful it scared off the first bird and turned and swooped away. After some recovery and consideration time (we knew there couldn't be any young up there, they weren't coming back, we didn't really want to down climb etc. etc.) we decided to carry the f*** on as quickly as possible. The final pitch of Bob's Climb offers some lovely climbing, despite being covered in bones, feathers, wings and other remnants of the Peregrin's occupation. Gruesome but lovely route. Would recommend.
Steve Claw 19 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is now a belay stake hidden just to the right of the broken fence. Also 2m to the left a fence post is ok to use. Do not belay across the path
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is now a belay stake hidden just to the right of the broken fence. Also 2m to the left a fence post is ok to use. Do not belay across the path
Coach_Rupert 10 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Last 2 comments below mine are highly relevant. Fence at the top is unusable for anchors, only option is to use big trees which cut across public footpath. Anyone walking past would have to step over your ropework. Also really make sure you turn right at the big bolt on the rock, it's easy to not notice and then get in a tricky situation where you're stuck with very little protection. I ended up having to do a very sketchy downclimb to backtrack on myself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Last 2 comments below mine are highly relevant. Fence at the top is unusable for anchors, only option is to use big trees which cut across public footpath. Anyone walking past would have to step over your ropework. Also really make sure you turn right at the big bolt on the rock, it's easy to not notice and then get in a tricky situation where you're stuck with very little protection. I ended up having to do a very sketchy downclimb to backtrack on myself.
tomhepworth 30 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fence at the top is very damaged and not really safe to anchor to. Bomber trees right behind but ropes may cross the footpath (we got shouted at by a very angry lady, despite being extremely apologetic) Also be aware of some broken glass in holds on the first pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fence at the top is very damaged and not really safe to anchor to. Bomber trees right behind but ropes may cross the footpath (we got shouted at by a very angry lady, despite being extremely apologetic) Also be aware of some broken glass in holds on the first pitch
MattyDredge 31 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Make sure you turn at the big bolt in the rock. If you don't you will find much, much harder climbing than VD with very sparce protection and limited options to get back on route.
Show beta
βeta: Make sure you turn at the big bolt in the rock. If you don't you will find much, much harder climbing than VD with very sparce protection and limited options to get back on route.
Mthr 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Aforementioned bird nowhere to be seen, many feathers remain.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Aforementioned bird nowhere to be seen, many feathers remain.
Webster 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: there is a dead bird on the jug ledge above the final roof, avoiding it makes the roof section much more difficult!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there is a dead bird on the jug ledge above the final roof, avoiding it makes the roof section much more difficult!
David Maddison 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The dead bird is still near the top of the route in the crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The dead bird is still near the top of the route in the crack
Darrell Read 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the dead pigeon on a ledge about a metre from the top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the dead pigeon on a ledge about a metre from the top!

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Route of Interest
Kitchen Girdle

Grade: VD ***
(Orphaned Route Crag)

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