Rockfax Description
A fantastic climb covering some impressive ground for the grade. Start at a large tree belay on the left of Lunchtime Ledge.
1) 24m. Traverse left across the smooth slab and then move left around the base of a big block overhang. Follow the corner above past a small tree to another tree and belay ledge.
2) 18m. Behind the tree is a blank looking wall. Climb this rightwards on good hidden holds to reach a large rock anchor bolt. Continue up a corner to a big overhang and pass it steeply using huge holds to easier ground and an abrupt finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
There is now a belay stake hidden just to the right of the broken fence. Also 2m to the left a fence post is ok to use. Do not belay across the path
Ticklists
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , I want a Pasty! , Evening Wall Complete Collection , Avon Gorge easier classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steve Claw | 19 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: There is now a belay stake hidden just to the right of the broken fence. Also 2m to the left a fence post is ok to use. Do not belay across the path | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is now a belay stake hidden just to the right of the broken fence. Also 2m to the left a fence post is ok to use. Do not belay across the path |
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| Coach_Rupert | 10 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Last 2 comments below mine are highly relevant. Fence at the top is unusable for anchors, only option is to use big trees which cut across public footpath. Anyone walking past would have to step over your ropework. Also really make sure you turn right at the big bolt on the rock, it's easy to not notice and then get in a tricky situation where you're stuck with very little protection. I ended up having to do a very sketchy downclimb to backtrack on myself. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Last 2 comments below mine are highly relevant. Fence at the top is unusable for anchors, only option is to use big trees which cut across public footpath. Anyone walking past would have to step over your ropework. Also really make sure you turn right at the big bolt on the rock, it's easy to not notice and then get in a tricky situation where you're stuck with very little protection. I ended up having to do a very sketchy downclimb to backtrack on myself. |
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| tomhepworth | 30 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fence at the top is very damaged and not really safe to anchor to. Bomber trees right behind but ropes may cross the footpath (we got shouted at by a very angry lady, despite being extremely apologetic) Also be aware of some broken glass in holds on the first pitch | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fence at the top is very damaged and not really safe to anchor to. Bomber trees right behind but ropes may cross the footpath (we got shouted at by a very angry lady, despite being extremely apologetic) Also be aware of some broken glass in holds on the first pitch |
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| MattyDredge | 31 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Make sure you turn at the big bolt in the rock. If you don't you will find much, much harder climbing than VD with very sparce protection and limited options to get back on route. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Make sure you turn at the big bolt in the rock. If you don't you will find much, much harder climbing than VD with very sparce protection and limited options to get back on route. |
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| Mthr | 22 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Aforementioned bird nowhere to be seen, many feathers remain. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Aforementioned bird nowhere to be seen, many feathers remain. |
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| Webster | 16 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: there is a dead bird on the jug ledge above the final roof, avoiding it makes the roof section much more difficult! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: there is a dead bird on the jug ledge above the final roof, avoiding it makes the roof section much more difficult! |
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| David Maddison | 16 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The dead bird is still near the top of the route in the crack | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The dead bird is still near the top of the route in the crack |
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| Darrell Read | 13 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the dead pigeon on a ledge about a metre from the top! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the dead pigeon on a ledge about a metre from the top! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)
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Kitchen Girdle
Grade: VD ***
(Orphaned Route Crag)