UKC

42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic climb covering some impressive ground for the grade. Start at a large tree belay on the left of Lunchtime Ledge.
1) 24m. Traverse left across the smooth slab and then move left around the base of a big block overhang. Follow the corner above past a small tree to another tree and belay ledge.
2) 18m. Behind the tree is a blank looking wall. Climb this rightwards on good hidden holds to reach a big rock anchor bolt. Continue up a corner to a big overhang and pass it steeply using huge holds to easier ground and an abrupt finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , I want a Pasty! , Evening Wall Complete Collection , Avon Gorge easier classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomhepworth 30 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Fence at the top is very damaged and not really safe to anchor to. Bomber trees right behind but ropes may cross the footpath (we got shouted at by a very angry lady, despite being extremely apologetic) Also be aware of some broken glass in holds on the first pitch
βeta?
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βeta: Fence at the top is very damaged and not really safe to anchor to. Bomber trees right behind but ropes may cross the footpath (we got shouted at by a very angry lady, despite being extremely apologetic) Also be aware of some broken glass in holds on the first pitch
MattyDredge 31 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Make sure you turn at the big bolt in the rock. If you don't you will find much, much harder climbing than VD with very sparce protection and limited options to get back on route.
Show beta
βeta: Make sure you turn at the big bolt in the rock. If you don't you will find much, much harder climbing than VD with very sparce protection and limited options to get back on route.
Mthr 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Aforementioned bird nowhere to be seen, many feathers remain.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Aforementioned bird nowhere to be seen, many feathers remain.
Webster 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: there is a dead bird on the jug ledge above the final roof, avoiding it makes the roof section much more difficult!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there is a dead bird on the jug ledge above the final roof, avoiding it makes the roof section much more difficult!
David Maddison 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The dead bird is still near the top of the route in the crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The dead bird is still near the top of the route in the crack
Darrell Read 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the dead pigeon on a ledge about a metre from the top!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the dead pigeon on a ledge about a metre from the top!

Logged Ascents

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Votes cast 93
Votes cast 93
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kitchen Girdle

Grade: VD ***
(Orphaned Route Crag)

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