Rockfax Description
Stylish and exposed climbing up the left side of the buttress. Start on a belay ledge beneath a black streaked groove.
1) 5a, 20m. From the left side of the ledge take a narrow, diagonal ramp out leftwards to two good hidden pegs at the base of a white wall. Climb the wall to another peg and then move up and left to a big quarry spike just left of the arete. Move around to the left side of the arete and climb up over an overhang and belay below a rickety tree.
2) 4c, 16m. Move rightwards onto the face and make intricate moves right to the base of a shallow groove in the centre of the face. Climb the groove past a peg, all the way to a large tree at the top of the crag. © Rockfax
G Lyne, T Taylor (pitch 1) 1963, F E Bennett (pitch 2), E Ward Drummond, W O R Hill (direct start) 1966.
Ticklists
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Bristol 1st E1s , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Avon Gorge Starred E1s , Avon Gorge VS - E1 , South West in Extremis , Avon GORGEous
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiddie68 | 9 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: P1 only. Nice up to overlap, then battle with the brambles. Take secateurs! Belay tree dying but new growth at the back of same mean it should be ok. We abbed off it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P1 only. Nice up to overlap, then battle with the brambles. Take secateurs! Belay tree dying but new growth at the back of same mean it should be ok. We abbed off it! |
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| reubenhf | 27 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: WARNING: As of July 24, the cable ab point at the top of pitch 1 is now in bad condition due to serious decline of the hawthorn tree around which it is placed. Strongly recomend backing it up for anchor building. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: WARNING: As of July 24, the cable ab point at the top of pitch 1 is now in bad condition due to serious decline of the hawthorn tree around which it is placed. Strongly recomend backing it up for anchor building. |
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| Tall Oak | 8 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Lead clean P1. Classic Avon - no pro and rusty pitons. Nice to reach the spike. P2 was easy and fun | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lead clean P1. Classic Avon - no pro and rusty pitons. Nice to reach the spike. P2 was easy and fun |
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| Euan Todd | 10 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rock quality fairly poor in the upper groove on P2. There's cracks for gear, but I think the gear would just take the rock off as well, so better not to place at all. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)
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Harvey's Crack
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Castle Park)