Lovely climbing on an enticing line, and with much better gear than first appearances would suggest. Start below a slim snaking groove-system where the upper overhangs fade.
1) 4c, 28m. Climb to the first band of overhangs and step up into an open groove. Follow the open groove to its end at the next horizontal break before stepping left and up into the final rounded groove. Intricate climbing up the groove gains a small tree and nut belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb above the stance, moving rightwards to the base of a wide rounded crack. Move insecurely up the crack to a small tree and finish on easy ground to Lunchtime Ledge. © Rockfax
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , Avon VS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics
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