UKC

54m. A worthwhile 'top of the grade' 2011 addition from two young (at the time!) local Avon enthusiasts. Follow Dexter for 13 meters until just before its first belay. Climb the thin crack above you with good wires and difficulty to reach a small sapling. Continue above to the good wire in the pocket of 'Mediator'. Join this route briefly up the slab to meet the small roof and gear. Tip toe leftwards with a grin and finish as for Dexter.

*Checked and updated description 31.10.24 in preparation for the new Avon supplement which will include an accurate topo.

Rob Stanfield & Jack Bradbrook (Stanners & Quarryboy) 12/Mar/2011.

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User Date Notes
Stanners 31 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: 31.10.24 updated description: A worthwhile 'top of the grade' 2011 addition from two local young (at the time!) Avon enthusiasts. Climb Dexter for 13 metres until just before its first belay. Climb the well protected thin crack above with difficulty to reach a small sapling. Continue above to the good wire in the pocket of 'Mediator' and follow this route briefly up the slab to the small roof and gear. Undercut and tip toe leftwards with a grin to finish up Dexter.
βeta?
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βeta: 31.10.24 updated description: A worthwhile 'top of the grade' 2011 addition from two local young (at the time!) Avon enthusiasts. Climb Dexter for 13 metres until just before its first belay. Climb the well protected thin crack above with difficulty to reach a small sapling. Continue above to the good wire in the pocket of 'Mediator' and follow this route briefly up the slab to the small roof and gear. Undercut and tip toe leftwards with a grin to finish up Dexter.
Dunthemall 11 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed both lines, since the Drummond Guide was very vague
Show beta
βeta: Climbed both lines, since the Drummond Guide was very vague

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Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Central Route

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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