UKC

51m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile, pulse enhancing route that has been upgraded in recent times. Start 2m left of The Arete.
1) 25m. Climb up and diagonally left without much gear to a gap in the bushes. Move left across and up a slab to a tree belay below a wide rounded runnel.
2) 4b, 26m. Take the smooth wide runnel onto the open smooth slab. Move up a thin, fading crack to its end and then up the bold slab to an easing. Continue up the steadier slab above to Lunchtime Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , UK Lonely Leads , South West Climbs for a Northerner , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , Every HS in Avon Gorge

Feedback

User Date Notes
roobedoo 5 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Adding to the comments below, definitely harder since some holds have fallen off! I also failed to find any gear/threads in the break above the slab, so just ended up getting to easier ground for quite a run out finish - not sure if I was just being blind but definitely needs a look at for VS :)
Show beta
βeta: Adding to the comments below, definitely harder since some holds have fallen off! I also failed to find any gear/threads in the break above the slab, so just ended up getting to easier ground for quite a run out finish - not sure if I was just being blind but definitely needs a look at for VS :)
harryjan 6 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As per other comments the Crux of P2 definitely felt harder than a HS 4b today!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As per other comments the Crux of P2 definitely felt harder than a HS 4b today!
Dave Ing 29 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I felt like this was probably a bold HS (with the right guidebook description to warn people) rather than VS as suggested, and still 4b. The run out slab section was easy going and I didn't feel concerned that there was a chance of falling.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I felt like this was probably a bold HS (with the right guidebook description to warn people) rather than VS as suggested, and still 4b. The run out slab section was easy going and I didn't feel concerned that there was a chance of falling.
Dom Goodwin 29 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: VS (just) 4b. The route goes left at the top of the crack onto the blank slab. Then straight up the slab to the thread. It will be harder (HVS 4c) for those going off route by continuing up where the rock is flaking off at the top of the crack.
Show beta
βeta: VS (just) 4b. The route goes left at the top of the crack onto the blank slab. Then straight up the slab to the thread. It will be harder (HVS 4c) for those going off route by continuing up where the rock is flaking off at the top of the crack.
FinnBar 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Would agree with other comments, clear signs of snapped off holds at the top of the slab crux. Now several 4c moves on a blank slab over a long, long run-out (unless you have some micro gear with you). Bold VS 4c for me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would agree with other comments, clear signs of snapped off holds at the top of the slab crux. Now several 4c moves on a blank slab over a long, long run-out (unless you have some micro gear with you). Bold VS 4c for me.
Webster 19 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: there is a crucial flake hold now completely missing above the end of the crack on the now even blanker slab... HVS 4c now?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: there is a crucial flake hold now completely missing above the end of the crack on the now even blanker slab... HVS 4c now?
Lankcroft 27 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A few of the thin flakes on the P2 crux section came off in my hands. I don't think it will have affected the grade much. The abnormal amounts of rain we've had recently seems to have made things very loose in general around and above lunchtime ledge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A few of the thin flakes on the P2 crux section came off in my hands. I don't think it will have affected the grade much. The abnormal amounts of rain we've had recently seems to have made things very loose in general around and above lunchtime ledge

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 116
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 104
Votes cast 89
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gronk

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))

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