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UKClimbing Team

45m.

Rockfax Description
A challenging pitch that makes a direct assault on the black bulges. Start as for Limbo beneath the black bulges.
Climb to the ledges beneath the black bulges and locate a series of pockets that breach them on their left side. Difficult climbing and fiddly gear accesses the easier wall above and a horizontal break. Continue direct up a thin crack in a smooth, white wall and then via a small groove that leads to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

A Sharp, S Lewis 26/Oct/1976

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Suspension bridge rockfax integrale

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 8 Aug, 2019 2nd O/S
Flavio 8 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S On another one of Jenny's lets-complete-a-page-in-a-day missions... so I get allocated the E4... not that I had a choice.. Thank goodness we don't own the definitive guide and after a week of solid climbing glad this was soft too!
On another one of Jenny's lets-complete-a-page-in-a-day missions... so I get allocated the E4... not that I had a choice.. Thank goodness we don't own the definitive guide and after a week of solid climbing glad this was soft too!
Bob Peters 31 Jul, 2019 2nd
Mackinclimb 31 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 24 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S
with Brother Nick
with Brother Nick
Jim blackford 8 Jun, 2019 2nd
danieljames123 8 Jun, 2019 Lead Very enjoyable, though the flake above the bulges seemed a bit sub-ideal. Otherwise good gear, especially if carrying tricams. Climbing felt E3, only maybe gets E4 if questioning some of the rock
Very enjoyable, though the flake above the bulges seemed a bit sub-ideal. Otherwise good gear, especially if carrying tricams. Climbing felt E3, only maybe gets E4 if questioning some of the rock
ian d f 24 May, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2019 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 7 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S Physically the easiest E4 I have been on so far - not sure it warrants 6a. Had some sizeable bits that didn't feel too firmly attached though, would be pretty nervy if I had previously pulled off a couple big bits and avoided an accident on it - as per my partner!
Physically the easiest E4 I have been on so far - not sure it warrants 6a. Had some sizeable bits that didn't feel too firmly attached though, would be pretty nervy if I had previously pulled off a couple big bits and avoided an accident on it - as per my partner!
RuFin 17 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
GeorgT 31 Aug, 2018 2nd β
Stanners 31 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Memorable inner city crag vibes in the setting sun. Psyched to finally get around to doing this. No nasty surprises, just requires a sensible approach to stop any damage on the ledge.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
Memorable inner city crag vibes in the setting sun. Psyched to finally get around to doing this. No nasty surprises, just requires a sensible approach to stop any damage on the ledge.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
badgerjockey 13 Jun, 2018 2nd A lesson in steep sustained trad. Surprisingly decent gear rewards a confident approach.
with aiyer
A lesson in steep sustained trad. Surprisingly decent gear rewards a confident approach.
with aiyer
aiyer 13 Jun, 2018 Lead β Took ages on that bulge! Harry is a Saint for coming out just to belay me on this!
Took ages on that bulge! Harry is a Saint for coming out just to belay me on this!
Kev Little 6 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
aiyer 6 Jun, 2018 2nd Must lead soon...its all there!!
Must lead soon...its all there!!
Dale Comley 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 16 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Climbing not too hard. The jug rail over the bulge felt pretty loose. Needs to be treated carefully. Lots of good climbing in a big pitch.
Climbing not too hard. The jug rail over the bulge felt pretty loose. Needs to be treated carefully. Lots of good climbing in a big pitch.
will_benfold 23 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 23 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
blaza1 21 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
stevieboywonder 15 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 15 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Agree with previous comments that this is well soft for E4, in fact I'd say E3 5c really. Good climbing, quite pumpy but there are rests every so often above the bulge. I didn't bother to stop and fiddle with gear in the bulge, just placed a few pieces below and blasted on through.
Agree with previous comments that this is well soft for E4, in fact I'd say E3 5c really. Good climbing, quite pumpy but there are rests every so often above the bulge. I didn't bother to stop and fiddle with gear in the bulge, just placed a few pieces below and blasted on through.
Bristoldave 2 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with john
with john
John Tanner 2 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 4 Feb, 2015 2nd rpt The jugs at the end of the sequence through the bulge are very loose.
with Ian Cooper
The jugs at the end of the sequence through the bulge are very loose.
with Ian Cooper
i_a_coops 4 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 2 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jess Broadhurst
with Jess Broadhurst
Pippa 18 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Soft, but brilliant, really, really good
with RB1
Soft, but brilliant, really, really good
with RB1
Hidden 18 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
just one more 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Superb. Steep,perfect gear all the way and pretty easy to place. Very steady for E3
with Max B
Superb. Steep,perfect gear all the way and pretty easy to place. Very steady for E3
with Max B
davidclare 7 Aug, 2014 2nd dog
grp 7 Aug, 2014 Lead couple of falls but lead it from the ledge once i found an extra pocket.
couple of falls but lead it from the ledge once i found an extra pocket.
jon_ridley 7 Aug, 2014 2nd
Misha u 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S The easiest E4 in the world! Fair at middle of the grade E3 and significantly easier than Lyme Cryme that I did a couple of weeks earlier. The climbing is never too hard or too pumpy, with good holds to blast through the bulge and rests every so often above, although interest is certainly maintained. Some great moves and positions make for a very good route. I thought the cams below the bulge were questionable (I got three of them in) but Phil spent 10 minutes getting one of them out so can't have been that hard. The wires is it above the bulge were so-so as well but above that there was decent gear. So E3 is fair for the gear but the climbing is more like a hardish E2. Certainly nowhere near dangerous or hard enough for E4 5c! In the end, almost ran out of extenders. Several cams 0.3 would have been useful.
The easiest E4 in the world! Fair at middle of the grade E3 and significantly easier than Lyme Cryme that I did a couple of weeks earlier. The climbing is never too hard or too pumpy, with good holds to blast through the bulge and rests every so often above, although interest is certainly maintained. Some great moves and positions make for a very good route. I thought the cams below the bulge were questionable (I got three of them in) but Phil spent 10 minutes getting one of them out so can't have been that hard. The wires is it above the bulge were so-so as well but above that there was decent gear. So E3 is fair for the gear but the climbing is more like a hardish E2. Certainly nowhere near dangerous or hard enough for E4 5c! In the end, almost ran out of extenders. Several cams 0.3 would have been useful.
philhilo 13 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S Soooo soft for E4. 3 stiff pulls and a sustained 5b 5m section. Gear for crux far from poor - took 10 minutes to get cam out of pocket. Minor departure due to breaking hold at top.
with Misha
Soooo soft for E4. 3 stiff pulls and a sustained 5b 5m section. Gear for crux far from poor - took 10 minutes to get cam out of pocket. Minor departure due to breaking hold at top.
with Misha
Alex Winter 25 Sep, 2013 Lead Got completely boxed first go trying to fiddle in gear on the crux. Lowered down to the ledge, then led through. Good climbing through the bulge, but the line at the top is a bit vague.
with AJM
Got completely boxed first go trying to fiddle in gear on the crux. Lowered down to the ledge, then led through. Good climbing through the bulge, but the line at the top is a bit vague.
with AJM
Billg 30 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
with Megan Beaumont
debbie roberts 27 Sep, 2012 2nd
Marti999 u 27 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Ross Davidson 3 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S First E4 O/S, although it wasnt much harder than other pumpy hard E3's ive done
First E4 O/S, although it wasnt much harder than other pumpy hard E3's ive done
Hidden 3 Mar, 2012 2nd dog
Justin T 19 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Really nice involving but steady climbing prob E3/4 5c or safe F6c ish?
with Cusco
Really nice involving but steady climbing prob E3/4 5c or safe F6c ish?
with Cusco
thomasadixon 14 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Soft. Just a bit pumpy on the bulge, plenty of gear if you can place it.
with hms
Soft. Just a bit pumpy on the bulge, plenty of gear if you can place it.
with hms
Hidden 14 Sep, 2011 2nd β
richiebongo 9 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
with Jon Didymus
ericinbristol 26 Apr, 2010 2nd β Great lead by Barry. Superb route.
with Barry Durston
Great lead by Barry. Superb route.
with Barry Durston
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Paz 27 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
with TE
with TE
Hidden 24 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??, 2002 - Date a guess
Date a guess
jonnybee666 18 May, 2001 Lead O/S I did this when it was still graded E3 and thought that was pretty fair. It has a shortish goey section where its tempting to try and hang around and fix gear but nothing technical and then its pretty straightforward. Great climbing.
with Colm
I did this when it was still graded E3 and thought that was pretty fair. It has a shortish goey section where its tempting to try and hang around and fix gear but nothing technical and then its pretty straightforward. Great climbing.
with Colm
Billg 16 Apr, 2001 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
with Paul Tucker
JimR ??, 2000 -
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead β
Matt Clifton ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Helen
with Helen
Hidden 16 May, 1999 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 13 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with tombawimba
with tombawimba
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 1995 Lead
Neil McA u 25 Jul, 1993 2nd O/S
with Beak 2
with Beak 2
Hidden 5 Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
DDDD ??, 1987 -
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
andy gittins ??, 1984 -
duncan ? Aug, 1982 Lead O/S
with Dave Fletcher
with Dave Fletcher
Steve Bell ??, 1980 -
Steve Lewis 25 Sep, 1976 2nd
with sharpie
with sharpie
clanger ??, 1976 -
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 23
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Amanita Muscarina

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))