UKC

46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Fun and intriguing climbing that gives a memorable outing.
Start at a ledge just to the left of a slim curving crack on the right side of the face.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the wall just left of the crack, joining it at 4m. Follow the crack to ledges and a massive thread just above. Pull steeply through the bulge, thread, and continue past another thread to a body-size circular cave. Belay in the cave, and be sure to search out and sign the visitors' log book. Alternatively; from just below the massive thread, traverse up and rightwards to the base of a small corner and follow this to the lower of two horizontal breaks. Traverse the break left, past a peg, to the body-size circular cave.
2) 5a, 12m. Climb steeply out of the cave on the right, peg, and follow a short groove to easier ground and belay on a ledge.
3) 4b, 14m. Traverse left around the exposed arete into a corner (junction with Earl of Perth). Continue traversing left for 5m to a peg and climb up 5m to an abseil point at a large metal rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 15/May/1965.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Becky's ticklist , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Suspension bridge rockfax integrale , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge

Feedback

User Date Notes
SPearce 8 May Show βeta
βeta: Climbing in the evening, got dark due to changing our minds on who was leading pitch 2 (had headtorches) as we finish the final pitch we get threatened to be arrested by the police and caused a large incident involving three fire engines, police and a drone, and a threat of prosecution. Fire guys were lovely and understanding, but dont climb anything under the bridge at night, its apparently "illegal" according to the police and the bridge security.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbing in the evening, got dark due to changing our minds on who was leading pitch 2 (had headtorches) as we finish the final pitch we get threatened to be arrested by the police and caused a large incident involving three fire engines, police and a drone, and a threat of prosecution. Fire guys were lovely and understanding, but dont climb anything under the bridge at night, its apparently "illegal" according to the police and the bridge security.
Lucydavison09 15 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Had to wait for 3 goblins to climb out the cave before starting….very hot April day. Forgetting chalk was a bad move
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had to wait for 3 goblins to climb out the cave before starting….very hot April day. Forgetting chalk was a bad move
emmwilkes 26 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: knee bar the exit from the cave!!
Show beta
βeta: knee bar the exit from the cave!!
Tall Oak 22 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Committing going over the lips but its all there. Just need balls and precise foot work. Cool route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Committing going over the lips but its all there. Just need balls and precise foot work. Cool route
Mbowell 7 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Yellow tat in cave seems to be just jammed knots, check it before using. Pegs look ok and plenty of nut placements.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yellow tat in cave seems to be just jammed knots, check it before using. Pegs look ok and plenty of nut placements.
ZacMoss 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: All three stances have in-situ anchors with carabiners or maillons as master points. They can also be used as ab stations if you only have a single rope as the abseil is 40~m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All three stances have in-situ anchors with carabiners or maillons as master points. They can also be used as ab stations if you only have a single rope as the abseil is 40~m.
PaulJepson 26 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Please don't trust the in-situ thread on p1 to keep you safe (~2mm?! Wouldn't hang me coat on it!).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Please don't trust the in-situ thread on p1 to keep you safe (~2mm?! Wouldn't hang me coat on it!).
Fergus Moore 10 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Chicks in a nest on route, in one of the larger pockets just under the cave. Same happened to me on José Dansak last week! They seem to be all over the buttress.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chicks in a nest on route, in one of the larger pockets just under the cave. Same happened to me on José Dansak last week! They seem to be all over the buttress.

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Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area)

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 150
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 147
Votes cast 143
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Suspense

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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