UKC Logbook - 'Heart of the Sun'

Rockfax Description
A massive, steep slab shoots skywards and presents an irresistible challenge. Start at a short arete below an overhang with a thin crack in the wall above it.
1) 5c, 23m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break and a small ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 35m. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack system. Superbly sustained climbing up this gains a horizontal break with a right leading diagonal crack above it. Climb the diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to easier but more vegetated ground and a stance and abseil station.
Descent - make a 55m abseil back to the base. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Very good routes in the UK , Best slab climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , High Quality Adventure routes , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , South West in Extremis , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

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User	Date		Notes
Dave Musgrove Jnr	1 Oct, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Clearly some debate about the best approach. We’d been told by someone who’d done it recently that it was best to walk in by scrambling down into the cove. I looked at this and got to a really dangerous looking section that I didn’t fancy. We then went to look for the ab stake - it’s just a wooden post that wobbles around in its hole. There’s also a hard to spot stub from an old stake that you can clove hitch as a back up but it’s not great positionally. In the end we did neither because the bottom of the route was very wet. We decided though that we’d bring a stake and hammer when we next visit to make a more secure ab down to the belay/ab point at the top of P2. Lots of loose rock with that option too so whatever you decide, take care!
Show beta βeta: Clearly some debate about the best approach. We’d been told by someone who’d done it recently that it was best to walk in by scrambling down into the cove. I looked at this and got to a really dangerous looking section that I didn’t fancy. We then went to look for the ab stake - it’s just a wooden post that wobbles around in its hole. There’s also a hard to spot stub from an old stake that you can clove hitch as a back up but it’s not great positionally. In the end we did neither because the bottom of the route was very wet. We decided though that we’d bring a stake and hammer when we next visit to make a more secure ab down to the belay/ab point at the top of P2. Lots of loose rock with that option too so whatever you decide, take care!