UKC

Rockfax Description
A massive, steep slab shoots skywards and presents an irresistible challenge. Start at a short arete below an overhang with a thin crack in the wall above it.
1) 5c, 23m. Climb to and through the lower overlaps with difficulty and move up right to gain a thin crack (this first section has also been climbed starting in the small corner just to the right at a similar grade). Follow the thin crack past a bulge and on up to a horizontal break and a small ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 35m. Move right and then climb up rightwards to the start of a thin crack system. Superbly sustained climbing up this gains a horizontal break with a right leading diagonal crack above it. Climb the diagonal crack a little way to a thin break which is climbed up leftwards to easier but more vegetated ground and a stance and abseil station.
Descent - make a 55m abseil back to the base. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Very good routes in the UK , Best slab climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , High Quality Adventure routes , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , South West in Extremis , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

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User Date Notes
Dave Musgrove Jnr 1 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Clearly some debate about the best approach. We’d been told by someone who’d done it recently that it was best to walk in by scrambling down into the cove. I looked at this and got to a really dangerous looking section that I didn’t fancy. We then went to look for the ab stake - it’s just a wooden post that wobbles around in its hole. There’s also a hard to spot stub from an old stake that you can clove hitch as a back up but it’s not great positionally. In the end we did neither because the bottom of the route was very wet. We decided though that we’d bring a stake and hammer when we next visit to make a more secure ab down to the belay/ab point at the top of P2. Lots of loose rock with that option too so whatever you decide, take care!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Clearly some debate about the best approach. We’d been told by someone who’d done it recently that it was best to walk in by scrambling down into the cove. I looked at this and got to a really dangerous looking section that I didn’t fancy. We then went to look for the ab stake - it’s just a wooden post that wobbles around in its hole. There’s also a hard to spot stub from an old stake that you can clove hitch as a back up but it’s not great positionally. In the end we did neither because the bottom of the route was very wet. We decided though that we’d bring a stake and hammer when we next visit to make a more secure ab down to the belay/ab point at the top of P2. Lots of loose rock with that option too so whatever you decide, take care!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sacre Coeur Direct

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Blackchurch)

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