UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

40m.

Rockfax Description
An intense climb up the blank section of wall to the left of Lost Horizon. Start a for Lost Horizon. Move left and up to and over a right-angled overlap via thin moves to a horizontal crack. Move up left to a peg (and good small wire) in a thin crack and make fingery moves to a horizontal break. Continue more easily up to another break then move right and climb with difficulty to a ledge in the upper break. Step left and finish up a thin crack. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jacob Eagles 19 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Second lead attempt. Mega route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second lead attempt. Mega route

Logged Ascents

72 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Baggy Point

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 13 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rough Justice

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Haytor)

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