UKC

Restricted Access

TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow the approach instructions above - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS

** There is a voluntary climbing ban during the shooting season 1st Oct - 1st Feb. While this is not legally enforceable under Scottish Land Rights Act (walking is still permitted along the paths), it is strongly encouraged to keep a good relationship with the estate, who are currently very acccomodating of the bolting and climbing in the Heughs. **

15m. Start 2 m right of pheasant corner, as for the killing Fields.

Mark Garthwaite 05/Sep/2020.

Feedback

User Date Notes
hhwyatt 17 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fun moves between good holds. Definitely a route that's kind to taller climbers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun moves between good holds. Definitely a route that's kind to taller climbers.
rjbrady 27 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fun climb, all bolts good and holds good as of Feb 2023
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun climb, all bolts good and holds good as of Feb 2023
thomasburley 6 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Entertaining route.
Show beta
βeta: Entertaining route.
DrGarth 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The 4th bolt wasn’t loose, it was just the nut holding the hanger had loosened and has now been tightened. I have added another bolt just above. The block that Fraser mentions is not cracked all the way around but attached bottom left and there was no movement with the hammer. Like all new climbs at this crag there is a shedding of holds to be expected and all climbers should risk assess appropriately.
Show beta
βeta: The 4th bolt wasn’t loose, it was just the nut holding the hanger had loosened and has now been tightened. I have added another bolt just above. The block that Fraser mentions is not cracked all the way around but attached bottom left and there was no movement with the hammer. Like all new climbs at this crag there is a shedding of holds to be expected and all climbers should risk assess appropriately.
Fraser 22 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There's a large, projecting block (c.800x500x300mm) between the 3rd and 4th bolts that appears to be cracked all round and staying insitu by will power alone. Needs to be removed soon before someone dislodges it whilst climbing, with serious consequences. Also, apparently the 4th bolt is loose.
Show beta
βeta: There's a large, projecting block (c.800x500x300mm) between the 3rd and 4th bolts that appears to be cracked all round and staying insitu by will power alone. Needs to be removed soon before someone dislodges it whilst climbing, with serious consequences. Also, apparently the 4th bolt is loose.
waynem1985 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. Took some effort first 7 in a long while. Still lots of loose rocks, a few holds and foots holds have come off already. Though not made it any harder
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Took some effort first 7 in a long while. Still lots of loose rocks, a few holds and foots holds have come off already. Though not made it any harder

Logged Ascents

67 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Balgone Heughs

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 8 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Law of Gravity

Grade: 7a+ ***
(North Berwick Law)

Loading Notifications...