TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow instructions below - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS
The landowner is concerned about the health and safety issues associated with the public walking/cycling through the steading at Balgon Barns. This is clearly identified as a private estate road and a gate has now been erected across the private road and access to the crag is now a little more circuitous (additional 1.5km).
Approach is easiest via the John Muir Way from North Berwick Law.
Parking is best at the North Berwick Law car park, from here head to NBL quarry and take the path south past a small pond and through a couple of gates into farmland. From here head directly south along the field boundary, cross a small lane and continue until meeting a larger road at a chicane. From here rather than take the roughly surface track signed "Balgone Barns" to the farm, turn left/east and follow the JMW along the road for c.600m then along the field boundaries for a further 1.1km. Turn west off the JMW and follow the sign post for Balgone Lakes. After c.200m turn right to follow the path that runs along the south side of the lake. The crag is at the western end of the lake.
Shooting takes place between 1st October and 1st February so please avoid between these dates.
Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.
TAKE GREAT CARE if you are knocking rock off / developing a new route not to put others at risk. Remember there are other users in the area. This is VITAL to preserve access to this crag.
Mark Garthwaite 05/Sep/2020.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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hhwyatt | 17 Jul |
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βeta: Fun moves between good holds. Definitely a route that's kind to taller climbers. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun moves between good holds. Definitely a route that's kind to taller climbers. |
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rjbrady | 27 Feb |
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βeta: Fun climb, all bolts good and holds good as of Feb 2023 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun climb, all bolts good and holds good as of Feb 2023 |
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thomasburley | 6 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: Entertaining route. | ||
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βeta: Entertaining route. |
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DrGarth | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The 4th bolt wasn’t loose, it was just the nut holding the hanger had loosened and has now been tightened. I have added another bolt just above. The block that Fraser mentions is not cracked all the way around but attached bottom left and there was no movement with the hammer. Like all new climbs at this crag there is a shedding of holds to be expected and all climbers should risk assess appropriately. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The 4th bolt wasn’t loose, it was just the nut holding the hanger had loosened and has now been tightened. I have added another bolt just above. The block that Fraser mentions is not cracked all the way around but attached bottom left and there was no movement with the hammer. Like all new climbs at this crag there is a shedding of holds to be expected and all climbers should risk assess appropriately. |
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Fraser | 22 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: There's a large, projecting block (c.800x500x300mm) between the 3rd and 4th bolts that appears to be cracked all round and staying insitu by will power alone. Needs to be removed soon before someone dislodges it whilst climbing, with serious consequences. Also, apparently the 4th bolt is loose. | ||
Show beta
βeta: There's a large, projecting block (c.800x500x300mm) between the 3rd and 4th bolts that appears to be cracked all round and staying insitu by will power alone. Needs to be removed soon before someone dislodges it whilst climbing, with serious consequences. Also, apparently the 4th bolt is loose. |
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waynem1985 | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Good route. Took some effort first 7 in a long while. Still lots of loose rocks, a few holds and foots holds have come off already. Though not made it any harder | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good route. Took some effort first 7 in a long while. Still lots of loose rocks, a few holds and foots holds have come off already. Though not made it any harder |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(North Berwick Law)