UKC

Restricted Access

TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow instructions below - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS

The landowner is concerned about the health and safety issues associated with the public walking/cycling through the steading at Balgon Barns. This is clearly identified as a private estate road and a gate has now been erected across the private road and access to the crag is now a little more circuitous (additional 1.5km).

Approach is easiest via the John Muir Way from North Berwick Law.
Parking is best at the North Berwick Law car park, from here head to NBL quarry and take the path south past a small pond and through a couple of gates into farmland. From here head directly south along the field boundary, cross a small lane and continue until meeting a larger road at a chicane. From here rather than take the roughly surface track signed "Balgone Barns" to the farm, turn left/east and follow the JMW along the road for c.600m then along the field boundaries for a further 1.1km. Turn west off the JMW and follow the sign post for Balgone Lakes. After c.200m turn right to follow the path that runs along the south side of the lake. The crag is at the western end of the lake.

Shooting takes place between 1st October and 1st February so please avoid between these dates.

Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.

TAKE GREAT CARE if you are knocking rock off / developing a new route not to put others at risk.  Remember there are other users in the area.  This is VITAL to preserve access to this crag.

 

Climb the shallow groove to the right of ‘Fear and Loathing’. Tackle the blocky bulge directly, then follow the black streak to a steep crack and airy finish.

Gordon Waters 28/Aug/2023.

Feedback

User Date Notes
rjbrady 25 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Great fun once you get past the middle. Can top out as well.
Show beta
βeta: Great fun once you get past the middle. Can top out as well.
David Centeno 22 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The route it self is awesome. I took a couple of falls as small pebbles came off my hand and feet. Once the route is solid, it will be a 3 starts route as the moves are interesting and it\'s very consistent
Show beta
βeta: The route it self is awesome. I took a couple of falls as small pebbles came off my hand and feet. Once the route is solid, it will be a 3 starts route as the moves are interesting and it's very consistent

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Balgone Heughs

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Statement of Heuth

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Balgone Heughs)

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