UKC

Restricted Access

TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow instructions below - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS

The landowner is concerned about the health and safety issues associated with the public walking/cycling through the steading at Balgon Barns. This is clearly identified as a private estate road and a gate has now been erected across the private road and access to the crag is now a little more circuitous (additional 1.5km).

Approach is easiest via the John Muir Way from North Berwick Law.
Parking is best at the North Berwick Law car park, from here head to NBL quarry and take the path south past a small pond and through a couple of gates into farmland. From here head directly south along the field boundary, cross a small lane and continue until meeting a larger road at a chicane. From here rather than take the roughly surface track signed "Balgone Barns" to the farm, turn left/east and follow the JMW along the road for c.600m then along the field boundaries for a further 1.1km. Turn west off the JMW and follow the sign post for Balgone Lakes. After c.200m turn right to follow the path that runs along the south side of the lake. The crag is at the western end of the lake.

Shooting takes place between 1st October and 1st February so please avoid between these dates.

Cars should DEFINITELY NOT be left on the Balgone Barns access road further south as this is the one thing that will upset the landowner and jeopardise access to the crag.

TAKE GREAT CARE if you are knocking rock off / developing a new route not to put others at risk.  Remember there are other users in the area.  This is VITAL to preserve access to this crag.

 

Line left of Long Gone to a shared lower-off with that.

Rab Anderson 02/Sep/2023.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jamie1994 30 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable interesting route. 6A+ spot-on. Slightly easier than the route immediately right to the same lower-off. Take it slow and steady around 4th - 5th bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable interesting route. 6A+ spot-on. Slightly easier than the route immediately right to the same lower-off. Take it slow and steady around 4th - 5th bolt.

Logged Ascents

6 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Balgone Heughs

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Not Set
Loading Notifications...