Restricted Access
TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow the approach instructions above - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS
** There is a voluntary climbing ban during the shooting season 1st Oct - 1st Feb. While this is not legally enforceable under Scottish Land Rights Act (walking is still permitted along the paths), it is strongly encouraged to keep a good relationship with the estate, who are currently very accommodating of the bolting and climbing in the Heughs. **
15m.
Start as for Bullrush to first bolt then climb right into the scoop and then a very hard sequence up the overhanging wall.
* A new hold appeared in early March 2025 and became even better May 2025, thus dropping the grade to 7b or potentially lower. TBC*
* A new hold appeared in early March 2025 and became even better May 2025, thus dropping the grade to 7b or potentially lower. TBC*
F.A. Mark Garthwaite 04/Sep/2021.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Conormcc1991 | 4 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: The glued hold just before the second bolt came loose today and will come off with a little force. Tyy not to use it for clipping the second bolt! Also a good hold near the first bolt is loose. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The glued hold just before the second bolt came loose today and will come off with a little force. Tyy not to use it for clipping the second bolt! Also a good hold near the first bolt is loose. |
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| Conormcc1991 | 21 May |
Show βeta
βeta: 17/5/25. Solid 7b for me post hold crumble situation. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 17/5/25. Solid 7b for me post hold crumble situation. |
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| KKerr | 14 May |
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βeta: A hold that was glued in has fully broken off. It defo makes the route easier. Can someone reclimb and suggest new grade? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A hold that was glued in has fully broken off. It defo makes the route easier. Can someone reclimb and suggest new grade? |
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| Kieran James Cunningham | 15 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Climbed on 14/9/24. The route is now a fair bit harder but still no harder than 7b+ (I think the consensus was that it was a bit soft previously). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Climbed on 14/9/24. The route is now a fair bit harder but still no harder than 7b+ (I think the consensus was that it was a bit soft previously). |
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| Fraser | 4 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The good undercling just below the 4th clip is no more. I somehow pulled it off completely today when working the route. The crimp which was just above the undercling also came away when the hold broke. The route is now harder - new grade tbc by consensus. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The good undercling just below the 4th clip is no more. I somehow pulled it off completely today when working the route. The crimp which was just above the undercling also came away when the hold broke. The route is now harder - new grade tbc by consensus. |
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| Fraser | 23 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first bolt was fine and still solidly in the rock, it was just the nut that had loosened and the hanger removed. The hanger and nut are now back in place and tightened. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first bolt was fine and still solidly in the rock, it was just the nut that had loosened and the hanger removed. The hanger and nut are now back in place and tightened. |
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| luisarthurf | 12 Nov, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first bolt came off the rock, I told some of the people that are setting the new routes up there, but if anyone is going please take a wrench. We left the bolt just under where the route begins | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The first bolt came off the rock, I told some of the people that are setting the new routes up there, but if anyone is going please take a wrench. We left the bolt just under where the route begins |
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| rjbrady | 15 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Cool crux, my shoulder hurts though | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cool crux, my shoulder hurts though |
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| Boabigoe | 3 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really nice crux sequence, wee bit soft but still solid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really nice crux sequence, wee bit soft but still solid. |
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Logged Ascents
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Guidebooks for Balgone Heughs
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Route of Interest
Get orf my laaand
Grade: 7b ***
(Balgone Heughs)